Aspen

Aspen , United States
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Let's cut to the chase: Aspen can be snobby. It's true, but what do you expect, darling, from a place that's crawling with high-rollers clad in the latest in designer ski wear. Hand in hand with Vail, it's the winter playground for the wealthy.

But that certainly doesn't mean that you should turn your nose up at it. There is a reason people flock here, after all. The awesome Elk Mountains landscape offers not just top-notch winter sporting but also gasp-inducing scenery. In short, it's the nirvana of the outdoors.

The region is just brimful with 'fourteeners' (peaks towering over 14,000ft (4267m) high, but you probably knew that). And when you're tired of all the trees, craggy peaks, romping wildlife, wildflowers and frozen ski runs, pull up a chair in front of the Paradise Bakery and check out the brigade. You might see a Saab-driving policeman go past. Or better yet, you may find yourself nodding to local resident and gonzo-journo Hunter S Thompson, who once aspired to be Aspen's sheriff. Surely if he'd succeeded, we'd be telling you about a very different kind of place.

Area: 9 sq km
Population: 5,914
Country: USA
Time Zone: GMT/UTC -7
Telephone Area Code: 970

Orientation

Aspen, Colorado sits on the eastern part of White River National Forest in the midst of the beautiful Elk Mountains, which are a very small part of the Rocky Mountain Range and home also to other famed posh-pad, Vail. Aspen is 41mi (66km) south of Glenwood Springs and 208mi (335km) southwest by road from Denver. The commercial center of town is roughly bordered by Hopkins Ave to the north, and Durant Ave to the south. This area horseshoeing Wagner Park is where you'll find a host of lodging, eating and drinking opportunities as well as an ice-skating rink and visitor services. The Roaring Fork River flows down the east end of town, and Aspen Mountain's lifts get things moving at the south end. Aspen is surrounded by wilderness areas aplenty, so your explorations will likely take you many miles into varying directions.

Aspen

When to Go

Colorado's climate is influenced by its semiarid tendencies as well as its mid-continental location, which accounts for a huge variety in daily thermometer readings. The Rocky Mountains act as a barrier intercepting much of the west-born moisture, temperatures plummet with height gains, and weather up in these climes is, for lack of a more helpful work, unpredictable.

When to go really depends on why you're going. If you want Aspen for the sheer love of the white stuff, you can usually count on some degree of ski- or snowboard-able terrain from mid-December to early April. January is the coldest month, with temperatures as low as 8°F (-13°C) and as 'high' as 35°F (2°C). Average annual snowfall can be up to 15ft (4.6m), but that figure jumps to up to 25ft (7.6m) around the ski resorts. Sometimes flakes drop as late as June and as early as September. Summertime isn't any more predictable, and in the midst of a pleasant day, violent thunderstorms can sweep through at the turn of a head. July and August temps can reach 75-80°Fs (23-26°C), but nights are still chilly. However, note that all year-round, when the sun is out its rays are intense; arm your skin with sunscreen before heading outdoors.

Events

Those who know that a half-pipe isn't something you'd smoke might want to check out the heart-racing stunts of the International Snowboard Federation's World Pro Tour at Buttermilk in January. Later in the month, the Gay and Lesbian Film Festival rests your legs but moves your mind. And, if you're not already too sore, get a dose of belly-laughing at the US Comedy Arts Festival at the end of February. There's always something going on in the summer, so you shouldn't be bored, particularly if you stop by the Snowmass Village Rodeo, Wednesday and Saturday nights from late June to late August. Also running June to August, the Aspen Music Festival symphonizes the city with opera, chamber music and orchestral concerts. Always the star of summer, Independence Day is done with flair in Aspen, which celebrates with a parade, fireworks, a bicycle rodeo for children and an air force sky show. Dance Aspen moves through with performances ranging from ballet to modern acts in July and August. Come September, summer starts its wind-down with the Aspen Filmfest.

Aspen

Attractions

Aspen Center for Environment Studies

The Aspen Center for Environmental Studies (ACES) is a 22ac (10ha) wildlife sanctuary that hugs the Roaring Fork River. With a mission to advance 'the ethic that the earth must be respected and nurtured,' the Center's naturalists provide summertime guided walks, eagle demonstrations, special programs for youngsters and more. In the winter, snowshoe and ski tours are available in various locations, and its weekly scheduled slide shows may give you some respite from the frigid outdoors. You can take a self-guided tour of the preserve (with snowshoes in winter, if you prefer) surrounding Hallam Lake. The native indoor trout stream may be of interest to anglers and others.

Aspen Highlands

Aspen Highlands resort, 2mi (3km) southwest of town, is a web of 115 trails on 714ac (289ha) of uncrowded terrain that is revered by many locals. It offers loads of thrills for the daredevils - at least 75ac (30ha) of expert-level tree-skiing - but also keeps the beginners and intermediates out there happy. At the base of the resort, the Aspen Highlands Village offers many ski and tourist services, restaurants, shops and residential homes.

Aspen Historical Society Museum

The erstwhile home of silver-baron Jerome Wheeler, the restored three-story Wheeler-Stallard House was built in 1888 and today houses the Aspen Historical Society Museum. Tours are offered through the museum in the summer, and changing exhibits and archives are viewable in the Carriage House.

Another museum, Aspen Art Museum, is reached by crossing a 1911 trestle bridge over the Roaring Fork River - half the fun is getting there. Changing exhibitions feature nationally renowned artists, as well as the occasional local artist.

Aspen Mountain

From 'blue cruisers' to 'double-blacks,' Ajax's slopes boast a variety of terrain type, though don't expect anything too green and easy. The globe's ace skiers have zoomed through here, after all, and they aren't going to bother with the bunnies. On its palate are 76 trails wending through 673ac (272ha). Snowboarders, don't fret: since 2001, you're allowed in, too.

After the snow has melted - or before it has started its fall - the Silver Queen Gondola carries passengers from the centre of town to the top of the mountain, covering a vertical expanse of 3000ft (914m). Up top, guides from the Aspen Center of Environmental Studies await to escort you around the natural setting.

Buttermilk Mountain

Popular with snowboarders of all levels, this resort is 2mi (3km) west of Aspen. Its 42 trails stretch across 420ac (170ha). With a half-pipe and long-terrain park, riders who want to jump and test out their bag of tricks can do so to their heart's content. The resort is also known as an ideal playground for newbie riders and skiers. Afraid to climb onto that lift for the first time? Buttermilk has instructors and terrain forgiving enough to get you contemplating snowboarding's toughest black diamond runs before you know it.

Maroon Bells

Look over Maroon Lake toward a pair of lovely symmetrical heights known as the Maroon Bells, and you'll get a sense of one of the most-photographed scene in Colorado. The Maroon Bells, part of the Elk Mountain Range, shoot up 12,000ft (3658m) in very unique style, with their sedimentary composition, distinctive colouring and sharp angular forms glacially chiseled. Maroon Creek Rd is the most logical access to the peaks, but it's open during the day only to those using the campgrounds. You are free to bicycle up the 11mi (18km) road, but be warned that it's a 1700ft (518m) climb. A guided bus tour is a good way to get to the Maroon Lake trailheads, or take the public bus, which leaves every half-hour from Rubey Park Transit Center.

Rio Grande Trail

Side-stepping with the Roaring Fork River, this trail is the place to be if you hike, jog, walk dogs, ride a bicycle or even cross-country ski. The paved trail passes the post office, continues riverside and along a railroad bed, turning into a quiet dirt path at Slaughterhouse Bridge. The distance from Aspen to Woody Creek is 7.5mi (12km). This is a trail for the people, hooking the city sidewalks with the forested outdoors. It offers amazing views of dramatic landscapes, lush mountains and flowing rivers.

This trail is one part of many recreational and conservational projects spearheaded by the Roaring Fork Transportation Authority (RFTA). The RFTA is presently constructing a new 40mi (64km) trail along the Old Rio Grand route, linking Aspen to Glenwood; it's an ambitious plan, projected to take five to seven years to complete.

Snowmass

Snowmass (not to be confused with the small town of Snowmass Village) is 12mi (19km) northwest of Aspen. Not only is the terrain varied and expansive, but its bowl, The Cirque, has the biggest lift-assisted vertical drop in the country. Nordic skiing at Snowmass is available at the Club Cross-Country Touring Center, featuring 20mi (32km) of groomed trails.

During the summer, you can hop onto the Burlingame Lift, a scenic chairlift that starts its course from the Snowmass Village Mall and carries people to the middle of the mountain. Once there, meander along the trails, if the mood suits you, or try out a game of disc (Frisbee) golf, on the mountain's 18-hole course. Bikes are allowed on the Burlingame Lift, as well as on Sam Knob's chairlift.

Aspen

Off the Beaten Track

Ashcroft

Ashcroft could be called a relic of the silver-rush days. It boomed in 1883, with two newspapers, a school, a gaggle of saloons and 2000 residents, many of whom were giddily reeling from silver fortunes. The mines had very shallow pockets, however, and the town went bust: by 1885 there were only 100 people left lingering. Though autumn reveals this historic town at its present best, in any season an excursion here is a good call for a dose of scenery peppered with a fascinating history. Walking tours with a historical focus are occasionally offered by the Aspen Center for Environmental Studies. ACES also regularly offers guided nature hikes in the area.

When the ground gets too thick with snow for leisurely strolls, it's time to break out the skis: Ashcroft, with more than 20mi (32km) of groomed trails passing through the ghost town, offers the area's best cross-country skiing.

Collegiate Peaks Wilderness Area

There are a lot of high places in the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness - no surprise really as it boasts eight 'fourteeners' (mountains over 14,000ft/4267m in elevation). Another six peaks come pretty darn close to hitting that 14,000 mark. This is mountain-climbing paradise. Unfortunately, its prime mountaineering isn't a secret, so come anytime but on a summer weekend if you want to avoid the crowds. The teeming wilderness area also offers plenty of lakes and peaks and valleys - oh my - and covers 166,938ac (67,560ha), brushing up against the Continental Divide for 40mi (64km).

Hunter-Fryingpan Wilderness Area

Part of the White River National Forest, this wilderness area east of Aspen and north of Independence Pass is a perfect destination for those wanting to escape the scene down below (or around Maroon Bells). Its name results from the marrying of Hunter Creek and the Fryingpan River, and its body is big, at 82,731ac (33,480ha), and shadowed with pine forest. Hiking opportunities abound; be prepared for unpredictable weather, though, as thunderstorms tend to pop up out of nowhere. Hiking, horse riding and soul-searching are all possible on its trails. You're much more likely to come across elk, mule deer or lynx than tourist hordes.

No vehicles are allowed in Hunter-Fryingpan. One way to access the area is via the Hunter Valley Trail from Lone Pine Rd in Aspen. The trail follows Hunter Creek northeast about 3mi (5km) through wildflower meadows to the Sunnyside and Hunter Creek Trails, which lead to the wilderness area.

Roaring Fork River

About 70mi (113km) long from its start near Independence Pass to the Colorado River, the Roaring Fork is a body of water with one free-flowing personality. The Ute Indians, early residents of the area, named it 'Thunder River,' and it isn't a stretch to imagine why. In its relatively short distance it changes drastically in elevation - shifting about 7000ft (2134m) in total - making for variable, erratic depths and scenery that takes in everything from dramatic canyons to aspen-treed landscapes. It's the rushing artery of Aspen, with all manner of activities surrounding it. Scenic whitewater trips are available with local guides; full daytrips generally include lunch. Fishers reel in trout (brown and rainbow) and whitefish - the river is said to have the best winter fishing in the state.

Aspen

Activities

Most wintertime visitors to Aspen follow their poles straight to the slopes, for some top-of-the-line downhill and cross-country skiing. They share the area's white space with those snowboarding, snowshoeing or telemarking. When the ice melts, many more possibilities rise to the surface.

Aspen's trails are ideal for hiking and mountain biking, and areas like Independence Pass offer much sought-after rock-climbing. The more flighty may want to try out paragliding, which can be done solo or tandem. Oh, and did we mention Roaring Fork River, prime for river-rafting and fishing?

Of course, you could just grab the closest leather jacket and hot mama (or papa) and, like many of the visiting biker crew, rent a Harley hog for a loud motorbike cruise down the mountain roads, scarf flying behind in the wind.

Aspen

History

The earliest residents of the area now known as Aspen were Ute tribes, who called the region the 'Shining Mountains'. Many different Native American groups occupied the Rocky Mountains when the first Europeans ambled into the area, and the Utes' Colorado territory stretched from the Uinta Mountains and the Yampa River in the north to the San Juan River in the south, and as far east as the front range.

The first Europeans to spot the Rockies were Spaniards moving north from Mexico at the end of the 16th century; by the early 19th century Spanish influence extended through most of the western half of present-day Colorado. In the late 1800s, explorers hoping to strike it rich in the silver mines settled into Ute City, which was renamed Aspen in 1880.

The year of its official renaming, Aspen's population-count was a mere 300; within the next booming ten years, filled with excitement and mining fortune, the population leapt to 12,000. In 1887, Aspen became the first Colorado town to provide electricity to the whole of its population. The high life bred two railroads, four schools, six newspapers, ten churches, brothels and an opera house. Many of the historical buildings still standing today, such as the Wheeler Opera House, were created during this short stretch of time. By 1891, Aspen was the country's largest silver-producing district.

The boom didn't take long to reach bust, however, and Aspen's mining luck ended in 1893, with the repeal of the Sherman Silver Purchase Act under President Cleveland. Gold became the national standard once again, and the area's large mines shut down. Aspen held onto its status as a county seat due to its ranching and farming industries.

By the 1930s, Aspen's population had dwindled to 700. The silvering days were long over, and the next economic boost the area saw would be the result of its winter snow, which was certainly in no shortage. Plans to construct a ski resort were deferred by WWII, but in 1947 the floodgates began to part: Aspen Mountain opened for commercial business. Both Buttermilk and Aspen Highlands opened in 1958, and Snowmass joined the fun in 1968. At the same time, Aspen was also gaining status as an international arts-and-culture stop. Combined with its serenely beautiful landscapes, it's no wonder that everyone from well-to-do tourists to adventure-seekers didn't take long to discover the area.

While Colorado's vulnerability to economic rollercoasting - always a feature of its history - has continued into the new millennium, Aspen continues to enjoy its status of mountain playground to the botoxed bold and the beautiful. There is affluence here by the SUV-load, and that tends to keep the economy humming along, impervious to the booms and busts that have marked the history of other areas of the state.

Aspen

Getting There & Away

Well, ahem, if you don't have your own aircraft, you're still welcome to land in Sardy Field, 6km (4mi) north of Aspen. A little further afield, Eagle County Airport is 113km (70mi) north of Aspen and has increased services during ski season. American, Delta, United and Northwest Airlines use its airstrips, bringing in vacationers from various US destinations.

For those flying into or out of Denver International Airport, 335km (208mi) from Aspen, the Colorado Mountain Express will shuttle you. If you're shuttling yourself, reach Aspen via Hwy 82. During the winter, the highway over Independence Pass to Leadville is closed.

Getting Around

To get from Sardy Field to Aspen, you can take a free valley bus, which stops every half-hour about two blocks from the Airport Business Centre. For your return leg to the airport in the summer, take advantage of the direct service offered from Rubey Park Transit Centre; it leaves every half-hour during the day. High Mountain Cabs offers meter taxis 24 hours a day and car-rental agencies at Sardy Field are ready to accommodate your needs. However, if you really want to do it right, try a Harley-Davidson rental.

The Roaring Fork Transit Agency (RFTA) buses cover Snowmass Village and the valley to El Jebel north of Basalt, every half-hour. Free in-town shuttles shuffle around the Aspen Highlands Ski Area, Hunter Creek, Mountain Valley and Snowbunny, as well as the Music School on Castle Creek Rd. During the music festivals, buses also cover the grounds to and from the Music Tent.