Boston, United States
 

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Calling this quaint and charming city the 'Athens of America' might seem a bit braggadocio, but the city's 19th-century glory radiates through its grand architecture, its population of literati, artists and educators and its world-renowned academic and cultural institutions.

Disastrous 'urban renewal' projects in the 1950s provoked such a furious backlash that Boston now has some of the best preserved historic buildings and neighbourhoods in the country. Compact, walkable, historic and clean, the city blends old-world beauty and modern convenience.

Bostonians aren't trendsetters. They see themselves as civilised and their city as mature. They're in it for the long haul, which helps explain the city's conservative character. Contrary to their reputation, however, Bostonians are not crusty or stiffly genteel, but down-to-earth folks who value loyalty. They also enjoy a thriving street life, thanks to low-rise buildings that allow the city to retain a human scale, and an urban core that's home to people of all classes.

Area: 125 sq km
Population: 600,000
Country: USA
Time Zone: GMT/UTC -5 (Eastern Time)
Telephone Area Code: 617
 

Orientation

 

Boston is on a small peninsula in the middle of Massachusetts' Atlantic Coast, a little over 320km (200mi) northeast of New York City. Most of the city's sights are contained in less than 8 sq km (5sq mi). Cambridge (home of Harvard and MIT) is a short drive or subway ride north across the Charles River.

The North End, occupying the northeastern tip of the peninsula, is the historic city centre. The North End and the eastern waterfront are separated from the rest of the city by the John F Fitzgerald Expressway (I-93), now underground as a result of the Big Dig. Just south of the expressway are Faneuil Hall Marketplace and Government Center. The Financial District is a few blocks further south, Beacon Hill directly west, Boston Common (the city's main park) and Chinatown to the southwest. The Back Bay, South End and the Fenway are further to the southwest. Anyone in reasonable shape could walk from the North End to the Fenway - allowing for wandering, eating and shopping - in half a day or less.

 


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Boston

When to Go

 

Late May through June and September are the best times to visit. Everything's open, prices are moderate, days are warm and nights are cool. The busiest, most expensive times are high summer (July and August) and foliage season (late September to mid-October). During these popular times, many lodgings have restrictions about minimum stays, children, service charges, deposit refunds and payment; be sure to ask. The winters are often snowy and quite cold.

 


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Events

 

Reserved and booky they may be, but Bostonians do Independence Day for a week and St Patrick's Day can hangover even longer.

Kick off the Chinese New Year in January or February with firecrackers and scampering dragons. If you've ever had a taste for green beer you can drink your fill on St Patrick's Day in mid-March. South Boston holds the city's biggest St Paddy's parade, though Cambridge has made a point of allowing the gay and lesbian groups that SoBo excludes from marching. The city streets resound with the muffled slaps of thousands of running shoes during April's Boston Marathon.

Harborfest is Boston's weeklong version of the Fourth of July, with a free Boston Pops concert on the Esplanade and fireworks over the harbour. Save some room for July's Chowderfest, when you can sample dozens of fish and clam chowders from some of Boston's best restaurants. Head over to Cambridge for the Christmas Revels, which feature music, dancing and theatre from a different folkloric tradition each December.

Public Holidays
third Mon in Jan - Martin Luther King Jr's Birthday
third Mon in Feb - Presidents' Day
first Mon in Sep - Labor Day
1 Jan - New Year's Day
4 Jul - Independence Day
25 Dec - Christmas Day
fourth Thu in Nov - Thanksgiving Day
last Mon in May - Memorial Day
11 Nov - Veterans Day
second Mon in Oct - Columbus Day
 

 


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Boston

Attractions

Beacon Hill

When Oliver Wendell Holmes called Boston the 'hub of the universe', he was thinking mainly of Beacon Hill. You can locate Beacon Hill easily by the gilt dome of the Massachusetts State House and the undulating rows of brick houses that surround it. Boston's most affluent - one might almost say precious - neighbourhood, Beacon Hill was once the stomping ground of the Boston Brahmin, the stereotypical member of the city's ruling class. Modern day young urban professionals now tread the brick sidewalks and cobblestone streets of the hill.

The 1798 State House was designed by local architect Charles Bulfinch. You can watch the parliamentary machinations of the state legislature when it's in session. Some of the finest headstone carvings in New England are on view at the Old Granary Burying Ground, where Paul Revere, John Hancock and Samuel Adams rest in peace.


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Cambridge

There are college towns and then there are college towns - and then there's Cambridge. The double whammy of Harvard University and the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) would make any burg's head swell. Just across the Charles River from Boston, Cambridge is a mix of ivy covered antiquity and nose-ringed youth. Ground zero is Harvard Square (actually a triangle) and the surrounding blocks, crammed with all the bookstores, cafés, restaurants and shops you'd expect to find in a town that caters to 30,000 university students. Just off the square is Harvard Yard, a quiet leafy quadrangle of vine-covered brick buildings. Among the school's several museums is the Museum of Natural History, where over 3000 lifelike handblown glass flowers and plants are on display.


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Charlestown

This neighbourhood is a living museum of Boston's shipbuilding past. At the river's edge is the oldest commissioned ship in the US Navy, the USS Constitution. Launched in 1797, it got its nickname, 'Old Ironsides', after surviving over 40 engagements during Thomas Jefferson's war against the Barbary pirates of North Africa. At the Charlestown Navy Yard, signs of its 174-year run as one of the country's major shipbuilding centres include one of the country's first drydocks, an 1836 Ropewalk (where the Navy made its rigging) and a WWII destroyer of the type built here in the yard's heyday.

Nearby are the Bunker Hill Monument and Monument Square, where during the Revolutionary War a rebel commander warned his men not to fire until they saw the whites of British eyes. The blocks around the square are lined with restored Colonial and Federal houses. You can reach Charlestown via a short walk from the North End across the Charlestown Bridge, or by water taxi from the Long Wharf on the eastern waterfront.


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Faneuil Hall

Faneuil Hall and the adjacent Quincy Market form one of the country's first mixed-use commercial developments. The hall, built in the 1740s, has always been a market with an upstairs meeting hall; Quincy Market's three granite buildings were added nearly 100 years later to provide warehouse and retail space. The complex made the transition to tourist attraction in the 1970s, getting redubbed Faneuil Hall Marketplace in the process. Fishsellers and butchers still have stalls in Quincy Market's warehouses, but they now have trendy espresso joints and piano bars as neighbours. Jugglers and other street performers regularly perform outside.


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North End

Narrow, winding streets and the smell of coffee in the air probably mean you're in the North End, Boston's oldest neighbourhood and home to much of the city's Italian population. The heart of the Italian section is Salem, crammed with bakeries, cafés, delicatessens and candy shops. Among the remnants of Boston's early days are Copp's Hill Burying Ground, serving stiffs since 1660 (look for headstones pockmarked by Revolutionary War musket balls); the tiny clapboard Paul Revere House, built in 1680 and the oldest house in Boston; and the 1723 Old North Church, where two lanterns were hung in the steeple to signal the Brits' arrival by sea, which was followed swiftly by the first battle of the Revolutionary War.


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Boston

Off the Beaten Track

Cape Cod

'The Cape' - as it's universally called - is among New England's favourite summer vacation destinations and it thrives on tourism. Vacationers come (in dribs and drabs in the off-season, and in hordes in the warmer months) to lose themselves amongst endless miles of windswept seashore.

There may not be many salty old sea dogs hopping around on a wooden leg on the Cape these days, but the chief attractions of the area - the historic towns - have resisted the lure of strip malls and retained their nautical charms, even if at times they verge on the contrived.


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Concord

Concord was the Redcoats' next stop, but the guerrilla tactics of the Minutemen proved too much for them and they hightailed it back to Boston. White church steeples and oak and maple trees make this a quintessential New England town, located about 22 miles (35km) northwest of Boston. You can stick you finger in the hole left by a British musket ball at Bullet Hole House. The home of Concord sage Ralph Waldo Emerson is now a museum, and the remains of local hermit Henry David Thoreau's cabin grace the shore of nearby Walden Pond, just a few hundred yards southeast of the centre of town. Thoreau and Emerson are buried in Sleepy Hollow Cemetery, along with other such famous Concordians as Nathaniel Hawthorne and the Alcott family. From downtown Boston, Concord is a short trip by car or a 45-minute ride via commuter train.


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Lexington

Lexington is a repository of the kind of American History that comes in capital letters and reverent tones. On 18 April 1775, Paul Revere and two companions rode from Boston to Lexington in the predawn hours to warn the colonial militia - the Minutemen - of the impending approach of British troops. What followed was the first battle of the Revolutionary War, which took place on Lexington Green (now called Battle Green). This leafy, placid town has a number of historic houses and taverns, such as the 1695 Munroe Tavern and the 1698 Hancock Clarke House, where John Hancock and Samuel Adams hid out from the redcoats. Lexington is about 18 miles (29km) northwest of downtown Boston and is accessible by a combination of the subway and public bus.


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Marblehead

If you feel oppressed by the morbidity of Salem, Marblehead is a good place to clear your head with a big hit of sea air. Just a few miles southeast of Salem, Marblehead's narrow winding streets are excellent for exploring on foot. The best sights are in Old Town, also known as the Marblehead Historic District, where most of the town's colonial and early federal houses are. The 18th-century Jeremiah Lee Mansion is now a museum with period furniture, toys, folk art and nautical and military artefacts. At the southern end of Old Town, a causeway leads a few hundred yards east to the wooded island of Marblehead Neck, where mansions share the place with the Audubon Bird Sanctuary.


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Salem

Salem's mild-mannered suburban aspect doesn't immediately make one think of witches and warlocks hanging from the gallows, but 300 years ago the town was rife with rumors and accusations, and 19 people got the rope for consorting with the Wicked One. These days Salem takes a Disneyesque approach to its bewitching past. Open to the public are the Witch House, where suspected sorcerers and sorceresses were interrogated; the Salem Witch Museum, which uses dioramas, exhibits and audiovisual materials to explain the witch scare; and the Witch Dungeon Museum, where dramatic recreations of the witch trials follow transcripts of the original proceedings. The most famous house in Salem is the House of the Seven Gables, eponymous star of the 1851 Nathaniel Hawthorne novel. It's open to visitors year round. Salem is 20 miles (32km) northeast of Boston, about a 35-minute train ride away. The Salem Trolley takes visitors past all the major points of interest.


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Boston

Activities

Nearby Cape Cod is Boston's summertime playground, with beaches crowded with a colourful brigade of umbrellas and the ocean a sea of spinnakers. Nature-lovers will enjoy getting up close to rare birds and whales.


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Boston

History

Called Trimountain (from its three hills) in its earliest days, Boston took its permanent name from the English town. The vanguard of English settlers, led by Reverend William Blaxton, arrived in 1624 - less than four years after the Pilgrims arrived in nearby Plymouth.

The colony of Massachusetts Bay was established six years later in 1630, when the elder John Winthrop, official representative of the Massachusetts Bay Company, took up residence. From the beginning this was the centre of Puritan culture and life in the New World.

Puritanism was intellectual and theocratic, and so the leading men and women of early Boston society were those who understood and followed Biblical law - and could explain in powerful rhetoric why they did. Thus it comes as no surprise that the Boston Public Latin School was established in 1635 (and continues as an elite public high school today). A year later, Harvard College (now Harvard University) was founded in neighbouring Cambridge. By 1653 Boston had a public library as well, and by 1704 the Thirteen Colonies' first newspaper, the News-Letter.

Though the New England coast had many excellent natural ports (Essex, Plymouth, Providence, Salem), Boston was blessed by geography with the best of all. By the early 1700s it was well on its way to being what it remains today: New England's largest and most important city.

As the chief city in the region, it drew London's attention. When King George III and Parliament chose to burden the colonies with taxation without representation, the taxes were first levied in Boston. When resistance surfaced, it was in Boston. The Boston Massacre and the Boston Tea Party were signal events in the development of revolutionary sentiments, and the Battle of Bunker Hill solidified colonial resolve to declare independence from the British crown.

Following the Revolutionary War, Boston suffered economically as the British government cut off American ships' access to other ports in the British Empire. But as new trading relationships developed, Boston entered a commercial and industrial boom which lasted from the late 1700s until the mid-1800s. Fortunes were made in shipbuilding, maritime trade and manufacturing textiles and shoes. Chartered as a city in 1822, Boston's Beacon Hill was soon crowned with fine mansions built by the leading families, and Back Bay was filled in to make room for more.

These same prominent families also patronised arts and culture heavily. Though conservative and traditionalist in their general outlook, Bostonians were firm believers in American ideals of freedom, and firm supporters of the abolition of slavery and the activities of the Underground Railroad.

As the 19th century drew to a close, Boston's prominence was challenged by the growth of other port cities and the westward expansion of the national borders; New England's economic boom turned into a bust when the textile and shoe factories moved to cheaper labour markets in the South.

In the 20th century the city became more culturally diverse than ever before. The city's ethnic and economic profile had already been significantly altered by the 19th-century arrival of thousands of Irish immigrants, driven from home by devastating potato famines. The cultural mix grew more diverse with 20th century arrivals from Italy, the Ottoman Empire and Portugal.

Economically, Boston became more of a satellite than a hub, although it remained a prominent centre for medical education, treatment and research, and USA's premier university centre. Many graduates choose to remain in the Boston area, which has helped fuel a local booming commerce in computer research, development and manufacturing.

For all its ties to the past, Boston has always looked forward. The new millennium saw Boston entering a renaissance, thanks to the near-completion of the 'Big Dig' - an ambitious public works project to place the Central Expressway underground. Wealthy young professionals are moving back to the city in droves and, since the demise of rent control in the mid-1990s, they are the only ones who can reasonably afford to live there! Affluent and comfortable, Boston remains at the centre of US intellectual life.


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Boston

Getting There & Away

Amtrak trains will speed you to Boston (there's one from New York that takes only three hours - but it's pricey). The bus station is conveniently situated to give easy access to the city. Logan International Airport, Boston's major air hub, has good connections.

Logan International Airport (BOS), a few kilometres from downtown in East Boston, is the city's major airport. BOS is served by most major national and international carriers and getting a flight into Boston should present no problems. It's a short drive into town from Logan International Airport, though the subway is the easiest way into the city. There's also a water shuttle from the airport to Boston's Rowes Wharf on the northeastern waterfront.

Amtrak, the national railway system, stops at South Station, Back Bay Station and North Station. The Acela Express, Amtrak's new fast train, will get you to New York in three hours (two hours faster than the old express service), but you'll have to pay premium for it.

Boston has a modern, indoor, user-friendly bus station just south of the Financial District, conveniently adjacent to the South Station train station and above a T stop for the Red Line. Greyhound, Trailways and other bus lines serve the bus station.


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Getting Around

Boston's 'T', one of the oldest subways in the country, is the best way to get around the the Boston-Cambridge area. If you're not in a rush, the city is made for walking, with urban heritage paths and lots of green. Ferries cross Boston Harbor, but it's more an excursion than an option for getting around. Cars are not really a great idea for within the city - it's a bit of a nightmare to navigate for out-of-towners.

For getting around the Boston-Cambridge area you're best off catching the T, the oldest subway in the country and one of the best. The T serves most areas of the city and Cambridge, and several lines head to outlying suburbs.

The city is infamous for setting the teeth of out-of-town drivers on edge and you'll have a more relaxed time if you stick to the subway. For most excursions you will need a car, since commuter trains only go to some outlying areas (like Concord). Boston has all the major rental agencies.

Boston is a compact city easily covered on foot. There are also numerous walking trails through urban heritage districts and nature zones. If your feet peter out there's always a subway station nearby.

Ferries go to several points around Boston Harbor. Taking a ferry is a nice option for an excursion. It's a three-hour ferry ride or a three-hour drive from Boston to Provincetown on Cape Cod.


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