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Miami
, United States
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It used to be called 'God's Waiting Room' because of the many
octogenarians eking out their last moments by the pool, but today the old
folks mingle with fashion designers, bikini models and Cuban émigrés, and
the city that once had the highest murder rate in the US attracts millions
of tourists.
Greater Miami is a melting pot that would make America's founders swell
with pride. Half of Miami's population is Hispanic, giving the city an
international outlook. For the casual visitor this means a city peppered
with the flavors of Latin American food, language, music, politics and
spirit.
Warning
Due to hurricane damage, massive clean-up projects are underway in
Florida. Travelers are advised to check with local authorities before
visiting the area as some facilities may not be operational.
Area: 93 sq km
Population: 600,000
Country: USA
Time Zone: GMT/UTC -5 (Eastern Standard Time)
Telephone Area Code: Metropolitan Miami: 305; Miami and Miami Beach:
786
Orientation
Miami, Florida's most populated city, sits at the southeastern tip of the
most southeastern state of the United States, bordered by the Atlantic Ocean
to the east, the Gulf of Mexico to the west and the neighbouring states of
Alabama and Georgia to the north.
Most visitors aren't here for Miami itself, but rather to visit Miami
Beach, an entirely separate municipality. Miami is on the mainland, while
the city of Miami Beach is on a thin barrier island about 6km (4mi) to its
east, across Biscayne Bay - locals call it the Billion Dollar Sandbar. On
the mainland, the street numbering system is based on north-south and
east-west dividers. With the exception of Coral Gables, southwest of Miami,
(whose founders should be arrested for making their street systems so
stupid) getting around the area is a snap, despite the intimidating look of
the map.
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Miami
When to Go
You can't get much further south in the US than Miami, so when it
gets hot, its searing; consequently winter is the peak season. The city
bulges at this time; most of the US squeezes in while the rest of the
country freezes their Fanny-Maes off. The 'in-between' months,
especially August through to November, see a range of enticing festivals
so reservations come in handy at this time. The Calle Ocho Festival in
March especially draws the crowds.
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Events
There are special events all the time in Miami, a city known for its
partying, though during the summer months the pickings are slim. The
biggest event of them all is the Carnaval Miami, a nine-day festival at
the beginning of March, which includes a Miss Carnaval contest, Carnaval
Night concerts at the Orange Bowl, an inline skating contest, jazz
concerts, a Latin drag show, and a Calle Ocho cooking contest. The Calle
Ocho Festival is the culmination of Carnaval Miami and a great time to
be in Little Havana, since there are lots of concerts, giveaways and
Cuban food.
The International Hispanic Theater Festival from late May to mid-June
is one of the largest Hispanic theatre events in the US, featuring US,
Latin America, Caribbean and European theatre companies at the El
Carrusel Theater in Coral Gables. The Annual Miami Reggae Festival in
early August is a huge celebration of the music, held at Bayfront park.
Literary types might want to make it to the Miami Book Fair, held
during the second week of November. This international book fair is
among the most well attended in the US, with hundreds of nationally
known writers joining hundreds of publishers and hundreds of thousands
of visitors.
Public Holidays include: New Year's Day (1 January), Robert E Lee's
Birthday (19 January), Martin Luther King Jr Day (third Monday in
January), Presidents' Day (third Monday in February), Confederate
Memorial Day (Easter, 26 April), Memorial Day (last Monday in May),
Independence Day (4 July), Colorado Day (first Monday in August), Labor
Day (first Monday in September), Columbus Day (second Monday in
October), Veterans' Day (11 November), Thanksgiving (fourth Thursday in
November) and Christmas Day.
11 Nov - Veterans Day
second Mon in Oct - Columbus Day
last Mon in May - Memorial Day
Mar/Apr - Easter
third Mon in Jan - Martin Luther King Jnr Day
third Mon in Feb - Presidents Day
1 Jan - New Year's Day
25 Dec - Christmas
4 Jul - Independence Day
first Mon in Sep - Labor Day
fourth Thu in Nov - Thanksgiving
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Miami
Attractions
Bill Baggs Cape Florida State Recreation Area
Bill Baggs Cape Florida State Recreation Area, at the southern
end of Key Biscayne, offers acres of exotic plants and nature trails
bordered by white-sand beaches. At the park's southern tip is the
Cape Florida Lighthouse, built in 1845. Key Biscayne is 5 miles
(8km) southeast of mainland Miami.
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Little Havana
After the Mariel Boatlift, the section of town to which Cuban
exiles had been gravitating for years blossomed into a distinctly
Cuban neighbourhood, now known as Little Havana. Spanish is the
predominant language here, and you'll run into plenty of people who
speak no English. The heart of Little Havana is Calle Ocho (KAH-yeh
AW-cho), Spanish for SW 8th St (actually it's Spanish just for 8th
St, but what the hell). The entire length of Calle Ocho is lined
with Cuban shops, cafes, record stores, pharmacies, and clothing and
(most amusing) bridal shops.
But while the wall-of-sound-style speakers set up outside places
such as Power Records are blasting salsa and other Latin music into
the street, Little Havana as a tourist attraction is elusive. It's
not concentrated like a Chinatown; it's actually not really a
tourist attraction at all. It's just a Cuban neighbourhood, so
except during the occasional street fair or celebration, you
shouldn't expect Tito Puente and Celia Cruz to be leading
colourfully attired, tight-trousered men and scantily-clad women in
a Carnaval parade. You're more likely to see old men playing
dominoes in Máximo Gómez Park.
Little Havana occupies 10 square blocks, centred on Calle Ocho,
southwest of downtown Miami.
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Miami Beach
Most people come to Miami Beach for its beaches, clubs and bars,
and to witness one of the most spectacular redesigns in modern
architectural history. The Art Deco Historic District, a collection
of bright pink, lavender and turquoise buildings dating from the
1920s, is one of the largest areas on the US National Register of
Historic Places. Its protection and renovation has been one of the
major reasons for the rebirth of Miami as a top-notch tourist
destination. The Deco district is in the heart of funky South Beach
(SoBe), the southwestern section of Miami Beach.
For a city beach, Miami Beach is one of the best around. The
water is clear and warm, the sand relatively white and, best of all,
it's wide enough and long enough to accommodate the throngs. The
Promenade is a Deco-ish, wavy ribbon of concrete at the Beach's
westernmost edge. If you've ever looked at a fashion magazine,
you've seen it: it's the photo shoot site. If you show up
early in the morning, you're likely to see shoots in progress. This
is also the hot spot for in-line skaters, bicyclists, skateboarders,
dog walkers and people watchers to mill about bumping into each
other.
Miami Beach has a strong Jewish culture mixed with a dash of
Latin flair: there's even a Cuban-Jewish Congregation. The city's
Holocaust Memorial, in the middle of Miami Beach, was created
through the efforts of Miami Beach Holocaust survivors. It's an
elaborate, exquisitely detailed and moving memorial. Like the
Kaddish, the Jewish prayer for the dead that does not once mention
death but rather speaks only of life, the Memorial is a testament to
humanity's perseverance and the hope for a better world.
Miami Beach is attached to the city of Miami, 6km (4mi) to its
west, by a series of causeways.
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Miami
Off the Beaten Track
Everglades National Park
The Everglades is a unique and delicate ecosystem made up of
swamps and marshes at the southern tip of the Florida peninsula.
It's the largest subtropical wilderness in the continental US
but is currently under threat from pollution.
From the brackish waters of the mangrove and cypress swamps,
to hardwood hammocks, sawgrass flats and Dade County pinelands,
there is simply no place in the world like the Everglades. These
marshes are home to crocodiles and alligators, bottle-nosed
dolphins, manatees, snowy egrets, bald eagles and ospreys. You
can visit for an afternoon or get totally absorbed for days
canoeing around the 10,000 Islands and along the Wilderness
Waterway.
The main points of entry to the park have visitors centres
where you can get maps, camping permits and information from
rangers. Free camping permits are required for overnight stays.
By far the easiest and cheapest way to get to the Everglades is
by car. The drive from Miami takes a little less than two hours.
Greyhound only serves Naples, about 25 miles (40km) north of the
Gulf Coast Visitor Center.
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Fort Lauderdale
Despite its reputation as Good Time Central (which it
decidedly is), Fort Lauderdale has a surprising number of
cultural and historical sites... for a party town. In recent
years, the Spring Break capital of the universe has smartened up
its image - but only a little.
That Fort Lauderdale is so well-endowed in the museum and
gallery department shows how serious its denizens are about
moving on from spring-breakarama. Art, science and history are
well-represented, although incurable gossips should make for the
National Enquirer Headquarters.
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Key West
The islands to the south of Miami were once underwater coral
reefs, and they're still recognized for their marine life today.
Linked to Miami by a precarious island-hopping 135-mile (216km)
highway, the string of islands ends at Key West, the land of
Hemingway, sunset celebrations and Key Lime Pie.
Key West is roughly oval shaped, with most of the action
taking place at the western end, while Mallory Square, at the
far northwestern tip, is the site of nightly sunset
celebrations. For the best diving, aim for Key West's southern
shore.
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Miami
History
In 1895, a record freeze enveloped most of the north of
Florida, where Henry Flagler's railroads were disgorging
thousands of rich and powerful northerners who were coming
to stay at his hotels and resorts. The freeze wiped out
citrus crops and sent vacationers scurrying, and legend has
it that Julia Tuttle (who owned large tracts of property in
Miami and had approached Flagler with the offer of
partnership in exchange for the extension of his railroad to
Miami, which he'd refused) went into her garden, snipped off
some flowers and sent them to Flagler, who hightailed it
down to Miami to see for himself.
What he saw was a tropical paradise. Flagler and Tuttle
came to terms, and Flagler announced the extension of his
railroad. At that, thousands of people whose livelihoods had
been wiped out by the big freeze, including citrus growers
and service industry workers like doctors and merchants,
began heading down to Miami in anticipation of the boom that
was to come. Passenger train service to Miami began 22 April
1896; in that year the city of Miami incorporated and
development kicked off.
The early 20th century saw Miami still riding a wave of
prosperity. It peaked during WWI, when the US military
established an aviation training facility there. After WWI,
the first fully-fledged Miami boom (1923-25) was fuelled not
just by the area's idyllic beachfront location and perfect
weather, but also by gambling and the fact that it never
really took to the idea of prohibition - though it was
illegal, liquor flowed freely throughout the entire
Prohibition era.
But the boom was cut short by a devastating hurricane,
which was immediately followed by statewide recession and
national depression. In the mid-1930s, a mini-boom saw the
construction of Miami Beach's famous Art Deco buildings, and
this reasonably prosperous period continued until 1942, when
a German U-Boat sank an American tanker off Florida's coast.
The ensuing freak-out created a full-scale conversion of
South Florida into a massive military base, training
facility and staging area.
After WWII, many of Miami's trainee soldiers returned and
settled, and the city maintained its pre-war prosperity. In
the 1950s, Miami Beach had another boom, as the area began
to be known as the 'Cuba of America': punters and gangsters,
enticed by Miami's gambling as well as its proximity to the
fun, sun and fast times of Batista-run Cuba, moved in en
masse. After the Castro coup in Cuba in 1959 Miami's Cuban
population swelled.
In 1965, the two 'freedom flights' that ran every day
between Miami and Havana disgorged over 100,000 Cuban
refugees. Tension built up between Cubans and the town's
African Americans, who were relegated to an area north of
downtown known as Colored Town. Riots broke out and acts of
gang-style violence occurred. In the late 1970s, Fidel
Castro opened the floodgates, allowing anyone who wanted to
leave Cuba access to the docks at Mariel. The largest
flotilla ever launched for non-military purposes set sail in
practically anything that would float to cover the 145km
(90mi) between Cuba and Florida. The Mariel Boatlift, as it
was called, brought 150,000 Cubans to Florida (including
25,000 prisoners and mental patients), and the resulting
economic, logistical and infrastructural strain on South
Florida only added to still-simmering racial tensions. The
situation exploded on 17 May 1980, when four white police
officers, being tried on charges that they beat a black
suspect to death while he was in custody, were acquitted by
an all-white jury. When the verdict was announced, fierce
race riots broke out all over Miami, lasting for three days.
In the roaring 1980s, the Miami area gained prominence as
the major East Coast entry port for drug dealers, their
product and the unbelievable sums of money that went along
with them. A plethora of businesses and buildings sprung up
all over Miami, and the downtown was completely remodelled.
But it was still a city being reborn while in the grip of
drug smugglers: shootouts and gangland slayings by cocaine
cowboys were common. The police, Coast Guard, Drug
Enforcement Agency, Border Patrol and FBI were in a spin
trying to keep track of it all. And then it happened:
Miami Vice.
The show, about two narcotics detectives clad in
outrageously expensive designer pastels driving around in a
Ferrari and million-dollar cigarette boats, was responsible
for Miami Beach coming to international attention in the
mid-1980s. The show's slick look, soundtrack and music video
montages glamorised the rich life in South Florida, and
before long people were coming down to see it. By the late
1980s, Miami Beach had risen to international standards of
Fabulousness. Celebrities were moving in, photo shoots from
all over the world were being shot there, and the Art Deco
district was going through a renovation that turned the city
into a showpiece.
The area is riding the peak of a boom that's been going
on for the past several years. Hurricane Andrew in 1992
barely affected the tourist industry, which is the city's
backbone. And despite highly publicised crimes against
tourists in 1993, Miami is now the third most popular
American city for international tourists, after Los Angeles
and New York. Its revival as a popular destination was
largely due to a highly visible anti-crime campaign that saw
tourist-related crimes decrease by 80% between 1992 and
1998. Despite the Miami murder of Gianni Versace in 1997 and
the ruckus over Elian Gonzales, the young Cuban boy who was
rescued from the sea after his mother drowned trying to
bring him to Florida, Miami continues to flourish: the
blithe, brash boomtown still has a few tricks up its
glittery sleeve.
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Miami
Getting There & Away
Miami has two airports, Miami International Airport
(MIA) and Fort Lauderdale/Hollywood International
Airport (FLL). MIA is closer to town and has more
connections; it's one of the busiest airports in the US.
If you're coming in by land, you'll find plenty of
Amtrak and Greyhound options, or you could drive there
(preferably through the awesome Florida panhandle).
Miami is served by two main airports: Miami
International Airport (MIA), about 19km (12mi) west of
downtown, and the Fort Lauderdale/Hollywood
International Airport (FLL), about 48km (30mi) north of
the city. MIA is one the USA's busiest in terms of
aircraft and number of passengers. Miami is the main
US/Latin American gateway, and the airport is served by
everyone and his brother's (including Brothers to the
Rescue) airlines. Most major European airlines have
service to Miami, though there's no direct service from
Australia or New Zealand; if you're coming from that
region of the world, you'll have to change planes in Los
Angeles. The best deals to Miami within the US are from
New York area airports, but the New York-Miami route is
also the most crowded.
Miami International Airport is served by public bus,
but private shuttle vans, taxis and limos are a far more
convenient (if more expensive) alternative. Many deeply
discounted tickets to Miami plop you down in the
shimmering new terminal at Fort Lauderdale/Hollywood
International Airport. It's a great airport and there
are plenty of rental car agencies, shuttle buses and
taxis ready to whisk you into Miami. The trip to Miami
Beach by bus takes about two hours. There's a shuttle
bus to the airport's Tri-Rail station, with trains going
to the edge of downtown Miami about once an hour at rush
hours, once every two hours during midday.
Amtrak trains connect Miami with cities all over the
continental US and Canada. Prices change often and are
generally a bit more than Greyhound at its cheapest and
a lot more than flying.
Greyhound Bus has three main terminals in Miami,
which send off and welcome buses to and from Orlando,
New Orleans, Atlanta, Washington DC, and New York City.
If you're arriving by Greyhound, the station is just
north of downtown Miami, on the waterfront.
Miami is at or near the terminus of several major
roads, making it easy to arrive or depart by car. One
particularly rewarding way to get there from west of
Florida is to take I-10, which passes through the
gorgeous beaches of Pensacola and across the Florida
Panhandle, connecting with I-95, Florida's Turnpike,
down the coast to Miami. I-75 and the Tamiami Trail (Hwy
41) also pass through.
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Getting Around
Miami's double-decker trains are marvellously clean
and quite cheap; the metrorail line through downtown
Miami connects with the commuter system Tr-Rail, which
runs to Dade, Broward and Palm Beach counties.
Metro-Dade Transit's buses cover a healthy amount of
the city: the Omni Metromover and Government Center
terminals in downtown Miami are the main bus depots.
Equal parts bus, train and monorail, Metromover is a
neat solution to downtown congestion: it's made up of
one or two-car computer-controlled vehicles running on
an elevated track. It's also a great way to get a cheap
tour of the downtown area. Although this is Miami, so
you may want to ditch the public transport and be seen
driving around in little more than a skimpy convertible.
Metrorail is a heavy rail system with one line,
running through downtown Miami and then south,
connecting with Tri-Rail, Metromover and Metrobus at
Government Center. Tri-Rail is a commuter rail system
that runs between three counties: Dade, Broward and Palm
Beach. The double-decker trains are a marvel of
cleanliness and, at least for the time being, they're
very cheap. For longer trips however, it takes about
four times longer to take Tri-Rail than to drive.
If you're over 25 and have a major credit card, the
easiest way to get to Miami Beach, Coral Gables or Miami
is to rent a car. Some of the rental agencies offer an
hourly rate with no minimum charges. All the big car
rental operators can be found in Miami and many have
branches at the airports.
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