Miami , United States

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It used to be called 'God's Waiting Room' because of the many octogenarians eking out their last moments by the pool, but today the old folks mingle with fashion designers, bikini models and Cuban émigrés, and the city that once had the highest murder rate in the US attracts millions of tourists.

Greater Miami is a melting pot that would make America's founders swell with pride. Half of Miami's population is Hispanic, giving the city an international outlook. For the casual visitor this means a city peppered with the flavors of Latin American food, language, music, politics and spirit.

Warning

Due to hurricane damage, massive clean-up projects are underway in Florida. Travelers are advised to check with local authorities before visiting the area as some facilities may not be operational.

Area: 93 sq km
Population: 600,000
Country: USA
Time Zone: GMT/UTC -5 (Eastern Standard Time)
Telephone Area Code: Metropolitan Miami: 305; Miami and Miami Beach: 786
 

Orientation

 

Miami, Florida's most populated city, sits at the southeastern tip of the most southeastern state of the United States, bordered by the Atlantic Ocean to the east, the Gulf of Mexico to the west and the neighbouring states of Alabama and Georgia to the north.

Most visitors aren't here for Miami itself, but rather to visit Miami Beach, an entirely separate municipality. Miami is on the mainland, while the city of Miami Beach is on a thin barrier island about 6km (4mi) to its east, across Biscayne Bay - locals call it the Billion Dollar Sandbar. On the mainland, the street numbering system is based on north-south and east-west dividers. With the exception of Coral Gables, southwest of Miami, (whose founders should be arrested for making their street systems so stupid) getting around the area is a snap, despite the intimidating look of the map.

 


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Miami

When to Go

 

You can't get much further south in the US than Miami, so when it gets hot, its searing; consequently winter is the peak season. The city bulges at this time; most of the US squeezes in while the rest of the country freezes their Fanny-Maes off. The 'in-between' months, especially August through to November, see a range of enticing festivals so reservations come in handy at this time. The Calle Ocho Festival in March especially draws the crowds.

 


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Events

 

There are special events all the time in Miami, a city known for its partying, though during the summer months the pickings are slim. The biggest event of them all is the Carnaval Miami, a nine-day festival at the beginning of March, which includes a Miss Carnaval contest, Carnaval Night concerts at the Orange Bowl, an inline skating contest, jazz concerts, a Latin drag show, and a Calle Ocho cooking contest. The Calle Ocho Festival is the culmination of Carnaval Miami and a great time to be in Little Havana, since there are lots of concerts, giveaways and Cuban food.

The International Hispanic Theater Festival from late May to mid-June is one of the largest Hispanic theatre events in the US, featuring US, Latin America, Caribbean and European theatre companies at the El Carrusel Theater in Coral Gables. The Annual Miami Reggae Festival in early August is a huge celebration of the music, held at Bayfront park.

Literary types might want to make it to the Miami Book Fair, held during the second week of November. This international book fair is among the most well attended in the US, with hundreds of nationally known writers joining hundreds of publishers and hundreds of thousands of visitors.

Public Holidays include: New Year's Day (1 January), Robert E Lee's Birthday (19 January), Martin Luther King Jr Day (third Monday in January), Presidents' Day (third Monday in February), Confederate Memorial Day (Easter, 26 April), Memorial Day (last Monday in May), Independence Day (4 July), Colorado Day (first Monday in August), Labor Day (first Monday in September), Columbus Day (second Monday in October), Veterans' Day (11 November), Thanksgiving (fourth Thursday in November) and Christmas Day.

11 Nov - Veterans Day
second Mon in Oct - Columbus Day
last Mon in May - Memorial Day
Mar/Apr - Easter
third Mon in Jan - Martin Luther King Jnr Day
third Mon in Feb - Presidents Day
1 Jan - New Year's Day
25 Dec - Christmas
4 Jul - Independence Day
first Mon in Sep - Labor Day
fourth Thu in Nov - Thanksgiving
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Miami

Attractions

Bill Baggs Cape Florida State Recreation Area

Bill Baggs Cape Florida State Recreation Area, at the southern end of Key Biscayne, offers acres of exotic plants and nature trails bordered by white-sand beaches. At the park's southern tip is the Cape Florida Lighthouse, built in 1845. Key Biscayne is 5 miles (8km) southeast of mainland Miami.


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Little Havana

After the Mariel Boatlift, the section of town to which Cuban exiles had been gravitating for years blossomed into a distinctly Cuban neighbourhood, now known as Little Havana. Spanish is the predominant language here, and you'll run into plenty of people who speak no English. The heart of Little Havana is Calle Ocho (KAH-yeh AW-cho), Spanish for SW 8th St (actually it's Spanish just for 8th St, but what the hell). The entire length of Calle Ocho is lined with Cuban shops, cafes, record stores, pharmacies, and clothing and (most amusing) bridal shops.

But while the wall-of-sound-style speakers set up outside places such as Power Records are blasting salsa and other Latin music into the street, Little Havana as a tourist attraction is elusive. It's not concentrated like a Chinatown; it's actually not really a tourist attraction at all. It's just a Cuban neighbourhood, so except during the occasional street fair or celebration, you shouldn't expect Tito Puente and Celia Cruz to be leading colourfully attired, tight-trousered men and scantily-clad women in a Carnaval parade. You're more likely to see old men playing dominoes in Máximo Gómez Park.

Little Havana occupies 10 square blocks, centred on Calle Ocho, southwest of downtown Miami.


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Miami Beach

Most people come to Miami Beach for its beaches, clubs and bars, and to witness one of the most spectacular redesigns in modern architectural history. The Art Deco Historic District, a collection of bright pink, lavender and turquoise buildings dating from the 1920s, is one of the largest areas on the US National Register of Historic Places. Its protection and renovation has been one of the major reasons for the rebirth of Miami as a top-notch tourist destination. The Deco district is in the heart of funky South Beach (SoBe), the southwestern section of Miami Beach.

For a city beach, Miami Beach is one of the best around. The water is clear and warm, the sand relatively white and, best of all, it's wide enough and long enough to accommodate the throngs. The Promenade is a Deco-ish, wavy ribbon of concrete at the Beach's westernmost edge. If you've ever looked at a fashion magazine, you've seen it: it's the photo shoot site. If you show up early in the morning, you're likely to see shoots in progress. This is also the hot spot for in-line skaters, bicyclists, skateboarders, dog walkers and people watchers to mill about bumping into each other.

Miami Beach has a strong Jewish culture mixed with a dash of Latin flair: there's even a Cuban-Jewish Congregation. The city's Holocaust Memorial, in the middle of Miami Beach, was created through the efforts of Miami Beach Holocaust survivors. It's an elaborate, exquisitely detailed and moving memorial. Like the Kaddish, the Jewish prayer for the dead that does not once mention death but rather speaks only of life, the Memorial is a testament to humanity's perseverance and the hope for a better world.

Miami Beach is attached to the city of Miami, 6km (4mi) to its west, by a series of causeways.


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Miami

Off the Beaten Track

Everglades National Park

The Everglades is a unique and delicate ecosystem made up of swamps and marshes at the southern tip of the Florida peninsula. It's the largest subtropical wilderness in the continental US but is currently under threat from pollution.

From the brackish waters of the mangrove and cypress swamps, to hardwood hammocks, sawgrass flats and Dade County pinelands, there is simply no place in the world like the Everglades. These marshes are home to crocodiles and alligators, bottle-nosed dolphins, manatees, snowy egrets, bald eagles and ospreys. You can visit for an afternoon or get totally absorbed for days canoeing around the 10,000 Islands and along the Wilderness Waterway.

The main points of entry to the park have visitors centres where you can get maps, camping permits and information from rangers. Free camping permits are required for overnight stays. By far the easiest and cheapest way to get to the Everglades is by car. The drive from Miami takes a little less than two hours. Greyhound only serves Naples, about 25 miles (40km) north of the Gulf Coast Visitor Center.


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Fort Lauderdale

Despite its reputation as Good Time Central (which it decidedly is), Fort Lauderdale has a surprising number of cultural and historical sites... for a party town. In recent years, the Spring Break capital of the universe has smartened up its image - but only a little.

That Fort Lauderdale is so well-endowed in the museum and gallery department shows how serious its denizens are about moving on from spring-breakarama. Art, science and history are well-represented, although incurable gossips should make for the National Enquirer Headquarters.


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Key West

The islands to the south of Miami were once underwater coral reefs, and they're still recognized for their marine life today. Linked to Miami by a precarious island-hopping 135-mile (216km) highway, the string of islands ends at Key West, the land of Hemingway, sunset celebrations and Key Lime Pie.

Key West is roughly oval shaped, with most of the action taking place at the western end, while Mallory Square, at the far northwestern tip, is the site of nightly sunset celebrations. For the best diving, aim for Key West's southern shore.


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Miami

History

In 1895, a record freeze enveloped most of the north of Florida, where Henry Flagler's railroads were disgorging thousands of rich and powerful northerners who were coming to stay at his hotels and resorts. The freeze wiped out citrus crops and sent vacationers scurrying, and legend has it that Julia Tuttle (who owned large tracts of property in Miami and had approached Flagler with the offer of partnership in exchange for the extension of his railroad to Miami, which he'd refused) went into her garden, snipped off some flowers and sent them to Flagler, who hightailed it down to Miami to see for himself.

What he saw was a tropical paradise. Flagler and Tuttle came to terms, and Flagler announced the extension of his railroad. At that, thousands of people whose livelihoods had been wiped out by the big freeze, including citrus growers and service industry workers like doctors and merchants, began heading down to Miami in anticipation of the boom that was to come. Passenger train service to Miami began 22 April 1896; in that year the city of Miami incorporated and development kicked off.

The early 20th century saw Miami still riding a wave of prosperity. It peaked during WWI, when the US military established an aviation training facility there. After WWI, the first fully-fledged Miami boom (1923-25) was fuelled not just by the area's idyllic beachfront location and perfect weather, but also by gambling and the fact that it never really took to the idea of prohibition - though it was illegal, liquor flowed freely throughout the entire Prohibition era.

But the boom was cut short by a devastating hurricane, which was immediately followed by statewide recession and national depression. In the mid-1930s, a mini-boom saw the construction of Miami Beach's famous Art Deco buildings, and this reasonably prosperous period continued until 1942, when a German U-Boat sank an American tanker off Florida's coast. The ensuing freak-out created a full-scale conversion of South Florida into a massive military base, training facility and staging area.

After WWII, many of Miami's trainee soldiers returned and settled, and the city maintained its pre-war prosperity. In the 1950s, Miami Beach had another boom, as the area began to be known as the 'Cuba of America': punters and gangsters, enticed by Miami's gambling as well as its proximity to the fun, sun and fast times of Batista-run Cuba, moved in en masse. After the Castro coup in Cuba in 1959 Miami's Cuban population swelled.

In 1965, the two 'freedom flights' that ran every day between Miami and Havana disgorged over 100,000 Cuban refugees. Tension built up between Cubans and the town's African Americans, who were relegated to an area north of downtown known as Colored Town. Riots broke out and acts of gang-style violence occurred. In the late 1970s, Fidel Castro opened the floodgates, allowing anyone who wanted to leave Cuba access to the docks at Mariel. The largest flotilla ever launched for non-military purposes set sail in practically anything that would float to cover the 145km (90mi) between Cuba and Florida. The Mariel Boatlift, as it was called, brought 150,000 Cubans to Florida (including 25,000 prisoners and mental patients), and the resulting economic, logistical and infrastructural strain on South Florida only added to still-simmering racial tensions. The situation exploded on 17 May 1980, when four white police officers, being tried on charges that they beat a black suspect to death while he was in custody, were acquitted by an all-white jury. When the verdict was announced, fierce race riots broke out all over Miami, lasting for three days.

In the roaring 1980s, the Miami area gained prominence as the major East Coast entry port for drug dealers, their product and the unbelievable sums of money that went along with them. A plethora of businesses and buildings sprung up all over Miami, and the downtown was completely remodelled. But it was still a city being reborn while in the grip of drug smugglers: shootouts and gangland slayings by cocaine cowboys were common. The police, Coast Guard, Drug Enforcement Agency, Border Patrol and FBI were in a spin trying to keep track of it all. And then it happened: Miami Vice.

The show, about two narcotics detectives clad in outrageously expensive designer pastels driving around in a Ferrari and million-dollar cigarette boats, was responsible for Miami Beach coming to international attention in the mid-1980s. The show's slick look, soundtrack and music video montages glamorised the rich life in South Florida, and before long people were coming down to see it. By the late 1980s, Miami Beach had risen to international standards of Fabulousness. Celebrities were moving in, photo shoots from all over the world were being shot there, and the Art Deco district was going through a renovation that turned the city into a showpiece.

The area is riding the peak of a boom that's been going on for the past several years. Hurricane Andrew in 1992 barely affected the tourist industry, which is the city's backbone. And despite highly publicised crimes against tourists in 1993, Miami is now the third most popular American city for international tourists, after Los Angeles and New York. Its revival as a popular destination was largely due to a highly visible anti-crime campaign that saw tourist-related crimes decrease by 80% between 1992 and 1998. Despite the Miami murder of Gianni Versace in 1997 and the ruckus over Elian Gonzales, the young Cuban boy who was rescued from the sea after his mother drowned trying to bring him to Florida, Miami continues to flourish: the blithe, brash boomtown still has a few tricks up its glittery sleeve.


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Miami

Getting There & Away

Miami has two airports, Miami International Airport (MIA) and Fort Lauderdale/Hollywood International Airport (FLL). MIA is closer to town and has more connections; it's one of the busiest airports in the US. If you're coming in by land, you'll find plenty of Amtrak and Greyhound options, or you could drive there (preferably through the awesome Florida panhandle).

Miami is served by two main airports: Miami International Airport (MIA), about 19km (12mi) west of downtown, and the Fort Lauderdale/Hollywood International Airport (FLL), about 48km (30mi) north of the city. MIA is one the USA's busiest in terms of aircraft and number of passengers. Miami is the main US/Latin American gateway, and the airport is served by everyone and his brother's (including Brothers to the Rescue) airlines. Most major European airlines have service to Miami, though there's no direct service from Australia or New Zealand; if you're coming from that region of the world, you'll have to change planes in Los Angeles. The best deals to Miami within the US are from New York area airports, but the New York-Miami route is also the most crowded.

Miami International Airport is served by public bus, but private shuttle vans, taxis and limos are a far more convenient (if more expensive) alternative. Many deeply discounted tickets to Miami plop you down in the shimmering new terminal at Fort Lauderdale/Hollywood International Airport. It's a great airport and there are plenty of rental car agencies, shuttle buses and taxis ready to whisk you into Miami. The trip to Miami Beach by bus takes about two hours. There's a shuttle bus to the airport's Tri-Rail station, with trains going to the edge of downtown Miami about once an hour at rush hours, once every two hours during midday.

Amtrak trains connect Miami with cities all over the continental US and Canada. Prices change often and are generally a bit more than Greyhound at its cheapest and a lot more than flying.

Greyhound Bus has three main terminals in Miami, which send off and welcome buses to and from Orlando, New Orleans, Atlanta, Washington DC, and New York City. If you're arriving by Greyhound, the station is just north of downtown Miami, on the waterfront.

Miami is at or near the terminus of several major roads, making it easy to arrive or depart by car. One particularly rewarding way to get there from west of Florida is to take I-10, which passes through the gorgeous beaches of Pensacola and across the Florida Panhandle, connecting with I-95, Florida's Turnpike, down the coast to Miami. I-75 and the Tamiami Trail (Hwy 41) also pass through.


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Getting Around

Miami's double-decker trains are marvellously clean and quite cheap; the metrorail line through downtown Miami connects with the commuter system Tr-Rail, which runs to Dade, Broward and Palm Beach counties.

Metro-Dade Transit's buses cover a healthy amount of the city: the Omni Metromover and Government Center terminals in downtown Miami are the main bus depots. Equal parts bus, train and monorail, Metromover is a neat solution to downtown congestion: it's made up of one or two-car computer-controlled vehicles running on an elevated track. It's also a great way to get a cheap tour of the downtown area. Although this is Miami, so you may want to ditch the public transport and be seen driving around in little more than a skimpy convertible.

Metrorail is a heavy rail system with one line, running through downtown Miami and then south, connecting with Tri-Rail, Metromover and Metrobus at Government Center. Tri-Rail is a commuter rail system that runs between three counties: Dade, Broward and Palm Beach. The double-decker trains are a marvel of cleanliness and, at least for the time being, they're very cheap. For longer trips however, it takes about four times longer to take Tri-Rail than to drive.

If you're over 25 and have a major credit card, the easiest way to get to Miami Beach, Coral Gables or Miami is to rent a car. Some of the rental agencies offer an hourly rate with no minimum charges. All the big car rental operators can be found in Miami and many have branches at the airports.


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