Las Vegas ,United States

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Las Vegas is all about glamour for its own sake, over-the-top hustle and flash as means and end. It's crowds of people in polyester pantsuits, big hair and gold chains, staring at neon signs and spinning lemons like deer hypnotized by headlights.

Not that Vegas doesn't have a serious side - billions are at stake on the tables and in the theme parks. But you're given enough distractions to ignore it, until you lose. If you tire of tugging on the slot machines, the surrounding area has some of the region's most beautiful scenery.

It's impossible to talk about Las Vegas without using the term 'world-class', because so many of the city's hotels, restaurants and extravagant entertainment options are truly that. Step outside the neon environs and even the splendors surrounding Sin City are world beaters - the Grand Canyon, Hoover Dam and the magnificent wind- and water-carved landscapes of the southwest's red rock desert.

Area: 293 sq km
Population: 478,400
Country: USA
Time Zone: GMT/UTC -8 (Pacific Time)
Telephone Area Code: 702
 

Orientation

 

Las Vegas is in the southern part of the state of Nevada, about 80km (50mi) east of the California border and 50km (30mi) west of the Arizona border. The city is divided into two main parts: a compact downtown called Glitter Gulch, centred on the intersection of Highway 95 and Interstate 15; and The Strip, a corridor of hotels and casinos lining Interstate 15 a few kilometres south of downtown.

The casinos are divided between downtown's Glitter Gulch and the Strip; most hotels are on or near The Strip. McCarran International Airport is located at the southern end of The Strip, about 8km (5mi) south of downtown. The Greyhound bus and Amtrak railway stations are downtown, and the railway station is located inside Jackie Gaughan's Plaza Hotel and Casino.

 


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Las Vegas

When to Go

 

Deciding on when to go to Vegas is a gamble in itself. As a general rule November to February has always been the quietest and thus cheapest time in Vegas. However, a lot of shows take a break during this time and aside from this, events such as Thanksgiving, New Year and the Superbowl have seen surges of people taking their parties to Vegas. Add to this the plethora of conventions that are usually held in town and accomodation prices fluctuate at whim. The spring-fall shoulder months tend to be the busiest times, as mid-summer fries the bejesus out of the place and winter, while still relatively mild, can throw a chilly night its way.

 


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Events

 

It's pretty hard to upstage the dollar-driven party pumping that is Las Vegas in everyday wear, but some diehard enthusiasts have been known to try. It would be sacrilegious for Sin City to close down its own peculiar devotions for a religious holiday (though it does take time out for Christ's birthday) but the city does have a few annual events and festivals.

Locals wear the green for the St Patrick's Day Parade in March. It's chaps and chili during the Helldorado Days Rodeo & Western Festival in June and the National Finals Rodeo in December. October brings both the Jaycee State Fair and the Cashman Field PGA Invitational Golf Tournament.

third Mon in Jan - Martin Luther King Jr Day
1 Jan - New Year's Day
fourth Thu in Nov - Thanksgiving Day
last Mon in May - Memorial Day
4 Jul - Independence Day
third Mon in Feb - Presidents' Day
first Mon in Sep - Labor Day
second Mon in Oct - Columbus Day
25 Dec - Christmas Day
11 Nov - Veterans Day
 

 


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Las Vegas

Attractions

Glitter Gulch

The blocks around the intersection of Fremont and Main Streets in downtown Las Vegas are known as Glitter Gulch. The first neon sign in the city went up here in 1929; now millions of lightbulbs and miles of neon tubing bathe the Gulch in perpetual daylight.

This is where you'll find Vegas Vic and his pal Sassy Sal - two of the best-known neon icons in the country. Some of the city's most famous casinos are in the Gulch, including the Golden Nugget and the Gold Spike, as are most of its strip clubs.


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The Strip

The Strip is a glittering main street of casinos of outrageous design. Circus Circus is tackiness incarnate where you can take in free circus acts in the tent-like interior. Adventuredome is a mini amusement park in a giant dome. New York New York is a casino replica of, well, New York.

The Mirage has a fake volcano which erupts every 15 minutes, 54 artificial waterfalls, a miniature tropical rainforest and dolphins frolicking in a giant tank. The Flamingo has live flamingos and Wayne Newton schmoozes buffet-glutted audiences for many, many weeks of the year.


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Off the Beaten Track

Grand Canyon

Yes, ok, when all is said and done it's just a big hole in the ground. A very big hole. But to stand at the top of the crater as the sun sinks and watch the light fade across the rock face is one of the most awe-inspiring sights on earth. Visiting the Grand Canyon should definitely be on everybodys 'before-I-die' list.


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Hoover Dam and Lake Mead

Few dams are artistic achievements, but Hoover Dam is an architectural gem, with a simple form and Art Deco embellishments and design. The sensuous geometry of the high concrete wall contrasts sharply with the rugged red rock of the canyon walls. Since the September 11 terrorist attacks against the USA only dam personnel are allowed to enter the structure. Everyone else is limited to seeing a movie on the history of the dam and exhibits on its construction and inner workings in the visitor centre.

Stretching to the north and east of the dam is the artificial body of water it created: Lake Mead. It's a good spot for boating, water-skiing, fishing and even scuba diving. Hoover Dam is an hour's drive southeast of downtown Las Vegas, from where several companies offer bus tours.

It's less than an hour's drive along Hwy 95/93 from Las Vegas to Lake Mead and Hoover Dam.


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Overton

If the flashing lights of Vegas blow your circuits, the laid-back little town of Overton is less than two hours' drive from Glitter Gulch. Settled in the 1880s, Overton hasn't changed much since. Aside from a few motels, bars and stores, there isn't much to do here aside from the museum, but it's a good place to escape the hubbub of The Strip.

Just north of Overton are 1000-year-old Anasazi Indian pueblos - actually, they're reconstructions on the original foundations. The pueblos are part of the Lost City Museum, which features a collection of locally found artefacts dating back 10,000 years. Overton is about 80km (60mi) northeast of downtown Las Vegas.


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Red Rock Canyon

Fewer than 30km (20mi) west of The Strip, Red Rock Canyon is everything Vegas isn't: raw, natural and very old - 65-million-years old. A 3000ft (900m) escarpment rises on the western edge of the valley. The canyon's most striking features - Joshua trees, multicoloured sandstone, jagged peaks - can be seen from the loop drive. There are many spots for picnicking, hiking and climbing along the way. There's a good visitor centre at the start of the loop.

To get to Red Rock Canyon from Las Vegas, drive west along Charleston Blvd, which turns into SR 159, for about 30 minutes.


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Las Vegas

Activities

Golf is only an option if you're loaded or organised well in advance. If you stay in town, you could take up tenpin bowling - it's a huge and extremely serious pastime in Las Vegas.


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Las Vegas

History

The only natural feature to account for the location of Las Vegas is a spring north of downtown. Once used by Paiute Indians on their seasonal visits to the area, it was rediscovered by Mexican scout Rafael Rivera in 1829. The area became known to overland travellers as las vegas - 'the meadows' - a place with reliable water and feed for horses. It became a regular stop on the southern emigrant route to California, the Spanish Trail. In the 1850s, Mormons built the town's first structures, a small mission and fort; the fort became a ranch house, but there was little development before the 20th century.

In 1902 the land on which Las Vegas now stands was sold to a railroad company. The area that is now downtown was subdivided when the tracks came through, with 1200 lots sold on 15 May 1905 alone - a date now celebrated as the city's birthday.

As a railroad town, Las Vegas had machine shops, an ice works and a good number of hotels, saloons and gambling houses. The railroad laid off hundreds in the mid-1920s, but one Depression-era development gave the city a new life. The huge Hoover Dam (then known as Boulder Dam) project commenced in 1931, providing jobs in the short term and water and power for the city's long-term growth.

In 1931, Nevada legalised gambling and simplified its divorce laws, paving the way for the first big casino on the Strip, El Rancho, which was built by Los Angeles developers and opened in 1941. The next wave of investors, also from out of town, were mobsters like Bugsy Siegel, who built the Flamingo in 1946 and set the tone for the new casinos - big and flashy, with glitzy entertainment laid on to attract high rollers.

The dazzle that brought in the more lavish cash-lashers also attracted smaller spenders. Southern California provided a growing market for Las Vegas entertainment, and improvements in transport made it accessible to the rest of the country. Thanks to air conditioning and reliable water supplies, Vegas became one of the country's most popular tourist destinations. In recent years, Vegas has bent over backwards to remake itself into a family resort destination, building theme parks inside its hotels. Hotels have outdone each other with working volcanoes, million-gallon fishtanks and miniature Manhattans. All of this - along with dozens of artificial lakes in the suburbs - has put a huge strain on the city's water supply, but it hasn't slowed the development juggernaut.

Today Las Vegas boasts 19 of the world's 20 largest hotels, attracts 33 million visitors per year (100,000 of whom get married there), and earns over 5250000000.00 in annual gaming revenue. A serious disruption to the city's well-honed reputation as a capital of low culture was the 2001 arrival of a Vegas branch of the Guggenheim museum. It's moved in, but it won't have truly arrived until the names Picasso and Cezanne go up in flashy lights on the Strip. There are other cities with terrific entertainment and gaming opportunities, but there is no place in the world like Las Vegas, and no city even pretending to be.


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Las Vegas

Getting There & Away

Theclassic way to pull into Vegas is in a car (preferably a Red Shark of a car) or on a Greyhound bus. If you travel by rail, you'll end up on a bus anyway, as trains only reach as far as California and Arizona. If you're coming from elswhere in the US, Canada or Europe, you can usually fly direct into McCarran International Airport.

Las Vegas is served by McCarran International Airport (LAS), where travellers from other US cities, Canada and Europe have the best connections. Departure tax is included in ticket prices. McCarran International Airport is located at the southern end of The Strip, about 8km (5mi ) south of downtown. Several companies run shuttle buses between the airport and the city. Taxis are also available, and city buses run along The Strip into downtown.

There is no train service to Las Vegas, but you can travel to Needles, California (170km/106mi away); Kingsman, Arizona (198km/123mi away) and Barstow, California (256km/159mi away) by train and connect to Las Vegas with Greyhound bus.

Greyhound runs bus services between Las Vegas and Los Angeles, San Diego, San Francisco, and Phoenix, Arizona. They have a station in downtown Las Vegas. Green Tortoise offers a low-budget, communal bus experience between Las Vegas and major cities on the West Coast.

One of the best and most picturesque ways to get to Las Vegas is by car. Highways traverse the desert and converge on Las Vegas from the major cities of the southwest.


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Getting Around

Vegas' compact centre and devotion to the customer make getting around a breeze. It's easy to navigate your way around either on foot (if you can stand the desert heat) or in a car. Taxis are waiting for your lightest gesture; you can also jump on the cheap and efficient buses or on one of the trolleys (air-conditioned!) that chug up and down the Strip.

The local bus company Citizens Area Transit (CAT) offers an excellent and inexpensive service. Buses chug along The Strip, downtown and between the two 24 hours a day.

Las Vegas is a very easy city to drive around (orientation around the grid is as easy as ABC) and if you want to get out of town you'll need your own wheels. You can rent a car at one of the many agencies in town.

If you don't want to do any more walking than you absolutely have to, you'll get by just fine in Las Vegas. You don't even have to dirty your stilettos on the sidewalk: just wave down a cab from the entrance of your hotel.

The Strip and downtown are easy to navigate on foot, especially since getting around really only means getting between three or four casino-hotels in a day anyway... If you do plan to walk around, remember, this is the desert - it gets hot!

Competing for a slice of the Strip's transportation action are numerous four-wheeled trolleys that resemble cable cars. These air-conditioned trolleys run the length of the Strip - from the Stratosphere at the northern end to Mandalay Bay hotel-casino at the southern end.


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Las Vegas

Further Reading

  • Nevada: A History by Robert Laxalt: A somewhat idiosyncratic but entertaining history of the Silver State.
  • Deserts by James A MacMahon: This book gives a fine overview of the southwestern deserts as well as being a field guide to the most important plants and animals of these regions.
  • Hiking Las Vegas by Anthony Curtis: Contains descriptions of 60 hikes within 60 minutes of the Strip.
  • Comp City: A Guide to Free Las Vegas Vacations by Max Rubin: If you've rocked into town without much cash, this book tells you how to garner casino freebies such as rooms, meals and shows.
  • Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas by Hunter S Thompson: Hunter S Thompson's tripped-out classic skates from ludicrous excess to sublime observations of America's most hallucinogenic city.
  • Casino by Nicholas Pileggi: An intriguing book that describes the fall of organised crime in Las Vegas' casinos.
  • The Everything Casino Gambling Book by George Mandos: This manual describes the rules and etiquette for all the casino games played in Las Vegas, with tips on how to beat the house.
  • Welcome to the Pleasuredome by David Spanmier: If you've ever wondered who's playing with the serious money, this book profiles some of Las Vegas' high rollers, its movers and shakers and their excesses.
  • Learning from Las Vegas by Robert Venturi: An architectural historian reveals the sacred and profane iconography of The Strip.


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