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Las Vegas ,United
States
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Las Vegas is all about glamour for its own sake, over-the-top
hustle and flash as means and end. It's crowds of people in
polyester pantsuits, big hair and gold chains, staring at neon signs
and spinning lemons like deer hypnotized by headlights.
Not that Vegas doesn't have a serious side - billions are at
stake on the tables and in the theme parks. But you're given enough
distractions to ignore it, until you lose. If you tire of tugging on
the slot machines, the surrounding area has some of the region's
most beautiful scenery.
It's impossible to talk about Las Vegas without using the term
'world-class', because so many of the city's hotels, restaurants and
extravagant entertainment options are truly that. Step outside the
neon environs and even the splendors surrounding Sin City are world
beaters - the Grand Canyon, Hoover Dam and the magnificent wind- and
water-carved landscapes of the southwest's red rock desert.
Area: 293 sq km
Population: 478,400
Country: USA
Time Zone: GMT/UTC -8 (Pacific Time)
Telephone Area Code: 702
Orientation
Las Vegas is in the southern part of the state of Nevada, about
80km (50mi) east of the California border and 50km (30mi) west of
the Arizona border. The city is divided into two main parts: a
compact downtown called Glitter Gulch, centred on the intersection
of Highway 95 and Interstate 15; and The Strip, a corridor of hotels
and casinos lining Interstate 15 a few kilometres south of downtown.
The casinos are divided between downtown's Glitter Gulch and the
Strip; most hotels are on or near The Strip. McCarran International
Airport is located at the southern end of The Strip, about 8km (5mi)
south of downtown. The Greyhound bus and Amtrak railway stations are
downtown, and the railway station is located inside Jackie Gaughan's
Plaza Hotel and Casino.
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Las Vegas
When to Go
Deciding on when to go to Vegas is a gamble in itself. As
a general rule November to February has always been the
quietest and thus cheapest time in Vegas. However, a lot of
shows take a break during this time and aside from this,
events such as Thanksgiving, New Year and the Superbowl have
seen surges of people taking their parties to Vegas. Add to
this the plethora of conventions that are usually held in
town and accomodation prices fluctuate at whim. The
spring-fall shoulder months tend to be the busiest times, as
mid-summer fries the bejesus out of the place and winter,
while still relatively mild, can throw a chilly night its
way.
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Events
It's pretty hard to upstage the dollar-driven party
pumping that is Las Vegas in everyday wear, but some diehard
enthusiasts have been known to try. It would be sacrilegious
for Sin City to close down its own peculiar devotions for a
religious holiday (though it does take time out for Christ's
birthday) but the city does have a few annual events and
festivals.
Locals wear the green for the St Patrick's Day Parade in
March. It's chaps and chili during the Helldorado Days Rodeo
& Western Festival in June and the National Finals Rodeo in
December. October brings both the Jaycee State Fair and the
Cashman Field PGA Invitational Golf Tournament.
third Mon in Jan - Martin Luther King Jr Day
1 Jan - New Year's Day
fourth Thu in Nov - Thanksgiving Day
last Mon in May - Memorial Day
4 Jul - Independence Day
third Mon in Feb - Presidents' Day
first Mon in Sep - Labor Day
second Mon in Oct - Columbus Day
25 Dec - Christmas Day
11 Nov - Veterans Day
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Las Vegas
Attractions
Glitter Gulch
The blocks around the intersection of Fremont and
Main Streets in downtown Las Vegas are known as
Glitter Gulch. The first neon sign in the city went
up here in 1929; now millions of lightbulbs and
miles of neon tubing bathe the Gulch in perpetual
daylight.
This is where you'll find Vegas Vic and his pal
Sassy Sal - two of the best-known neon icons in the
country. Some of the city's most famous casinos are
in the Gulch, including the Golden Nugget and the
Gold Spike, as are most of its strip clubs.
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The Strip
The Strip is a glittering main street of casinos
of outrageous design. Circus Circus is tackiness
incarnate where you can take in free circus acts in
the tent-like interior. Adventuredome is a mini
amusement park in a giant dome. New York New York is
a casino replica of, well, New York.
The Mirage has a fake volcano which erupts every
15 minutes, 54 artificial waterfalls, a miniature
tropical rainforest and dolphins frolicking in a
giant tank. The Flamingo has live flamingos and
Wayne Newton schmoozes buffet-glutted audiences for
many, many weeks of the year.
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Off the Beaten Track
Grand Canyon
Yes, ok, when all is said and done it's just a big hole in the ground. A
very big hole. But to stand at the top of the crater as the sun sinks and
watch the light fade across the rock face is one of the most awe-inspiring
sights on earth. Visiting the Grand Canyon should definitely be on
everybodys 'before-I-die' list.
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Hoover Dam and Lake Mead
Few dams are artistic achievements, but Hoover Dam is an architectural
gem, with a simple form and Art Deco embellishments and design. The sensuous
geometry of the high concrete wall contrasts sharply with the rugged red
rock of the canyon walls. Since the September 11 terrorist attacks against
the USA only dam personnel are allowed to enter the structure. Everyone else
is limited to seeing a movie on the history of the dam and exhibits on its
construction and inner workings in the visitor centre.
Stretching to the north and east of the dam is the artificial body of
water it created: Lake Mead. It's a good spot for boating, water-skiing,
fishing and even scuba diving. Hoover Dam is an hour's drive southeast of
downtown Las Vegas, from where several companies offer bus tours.
It's less than an hour's drive along Hwy 95/93 from Las Vegas to Lake
Mead and Hoover Dam.
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Overton
If the flashing lights of Vegas blow your circuits, the laid-back little
town of Overton is less than two hours' drive from Glitter Gulch. Settled in
the 1880s, Overton hasn't changed much since. Aside from a few motels, bars
and stores, there isn't much to do here aside from the museum, but it's a
good place to escape the hubbub of The Strip.
Just north of Overton are 1000-year-old Anasazi Indian pueblos -
actually, they're reconstructions on the original foundations. The pueblos
are part of the Lost City Museum, which features a collection of locally
found artefacts dating back 10,000 years. Overton is about 80km (60mi)
northeast of downtown Las Vegas.
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Red Rock Canyon
Fewer than 30km (20mi) west of The Strip, Red Rock Canyon is everything
Vegas isn't: raw, natural and very old - 65-million-years old. A 3000ft
(900m) escarpment rises on the western edge of the valley. The canyon's most
striking features - Joshua trees, multicoloured sandstone, jagged peaks -
can be seen from the loop drive. There are many spots for picnicking, hiking
and climbing along the way. There's a good visitor centre at the start of
the loop.
To get to Red Rock Canyon from Las Vegas, drive west along Charleston
Blvd, which turns into SR 159, for about 30 minutes.
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Las
Vegas
Activities
Golf is only an option if you're loaded or organised well in advance.
If you stay in town, you could take up tenpin bowling - it's a huge and
extremely serious pastime in Las Vegas.
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Las
Vegas
History
The only natural feature to account for the location of Las Vegas
is a spring north of downtown. Once used by Paiute Indians on their
seasonal visits to the area, it was rediscovered by Mexican scout
Rafael Rivera in 1829. The area became known to overland travellers
as las vegas - 'the meadows' - a place with reliable water
and feed for horses. It became a regular stop on the southern
emigrant route to California, the Spanish Trail. In the 1850s,
Mormons built the town's first structures, a small mission and fort;
the fort became a ranch house, but there was little development
before the 20th century.
In 1902 the land on which Las Vegas now stands was sold to a
railroad company. The area that is now downtown was subdivided when
the tracks came through, with 1200 lots sold on 15 May 1905 alone -
a date now celebrated as the city's birthday.
As a railroad town, Las Vegas had machine shops, an ice works and
a good number of hotels, saloons and gambling houses. The railroad
laid off hundreds in the mid-1920s, but one Depression-era
development gave the city a new life. The huge Hoover Dam (then
known as Boulder Dam) project commenced in 1931, providing jobs in
the short term and water and power for the city's long-term growth.
In 1931, Nevada legalised gambling and simplified its divorce
laws, paving the way for the first big casino on the Strip, El
Rancho, which was built by Los Angeles developers and opened in
1941. The next wave of investors, also from out of town, were
mobsters like Bugsy Siegel, who built the Flamingo in 1946 and set
the tone for the new casinos - big and flashy, with glitzy
entertainment laid on to attract high rollers.
The dazzle that brought in the more lavish cash-lashers also
attracted smaller spenders. Southern California provided a growing
market for Las Vegas entertainment, and improvements in transport
made it accessible to the rest of the country. Thanks to air
conditioning and reliable water supplies, Vegas became one of the
country's most popular tourist destinations. In recent years, Vegas
has bent over backwards to remake itself into a family resort
destination, building theme parks inside its hotels. Hotels have
outdone each other with working volcanoes, million-gallon fishtanks
and miniature Manhattans. All of this - along with dozens of
artificial lakes in the suburbs - has put a huge strain on the
city's water supply, but it hasn't slowed the development
juggernaut.
Today Las Vegas boasts 19 of the world's 20 largest hotels,
attracts 33 million visitors per year (100,000 of whom get married
there), and earns over
5250000000.00 in annual gaming revenue. A
serious disruption to the city's well-honed reputation as a capital
of low culture was the 2001 arrival of a Vegas branch of the
Guggenheim museum. It's moved in, but it won't have truly arrived
until the names Picasso and Cezanne go up in flashy lights on the
Strip. There are other cities with terrific entertainment and gaming
opportunities, but there is no place in the world like Las Vegas,
and no city even pretending to be.
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Las Vegas
Getting There & Away
Theclassic way to pull into Vegas is in a car (preferably a
Red Shark of a car) or on a Greyhound bus. If you travel by
rail, you'll end up on a bus anyway, as trains only reach as far
as California and Arizona. If you're coming from elswhere in the
US, Canada or Europe, you can usually fly direct into McCarran
International Airport.
Las Vegas is served by McCarran International Airport (LAS),
where travellers from other US cities, Canada and Europe have
the best connections. Departure tax is included in ticket
prices. McCarran International Airport is located at the
southern end of The Strip, about 8km (5mi ) south of downtown.
Several companies run shuttle buses between the airport and the
city. Taxis are also available, and city buses run along The
Strip into downtown.
There is no train service to Las Vegas, but you can travel to
Needles, California (170km/106mi away); Kingsman, Arizona
(198km/123mi away) and Barstow, California (256km/159mi away) by
train and connect to Las Vegas with Greyhound bus.
Greyhound runs bus services between Las Vegas and Los
Angeles, San Diego, San Francisco, and Phoenix, Arizona. They
have a station in downtown Las Vegas. Green Tortoise offers a
low-budget, communal bus experience between Las Vegas and major
cities on the West Coast.
One of the best and most picturesque ways to get to Las Vegas
is by car. Highways traverse the desert and converge on Las
Vegas from the major cities of the southwest.
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Getting Around
Vegas' compact centre and devotion to the customer make
getting around a breeze. It's easy to navigate your way around
either on foot (if you can stand the desert heat) or in a car.
Taxis are waiting for your lightest gesture; you can also jump
on the cheap and efficient buses or on one of the trolleys
(air-conditioned!) that chug up and down the Strip.
The local bus company Citizens Area Transit (CAT) offers an
excellent and inexpensive service. Buses chug along The Strip,
downtown and between the two 24 hours a day.
Las Vegas is a very easy city to drive around (orientation
around the grid is as easy as ABC) and if you want to get out of
town you'll need your own wheels. You can rent a car at one of
the many agencies in town.
If you don't want to do any more walking than you absolutely
have to, you'll get by just fine in Las Vegas. You don't even
have to dirty your stilettos on the sidewalk: just wave down a
cab from the entrance of your hotel.
The Strip and downtown are easy to navigate on foot,
especially since getting around really only means getting
between three or four casino-hotels in a day anyway... If you do
plan to walk around, remember, this is the desert - it gets hot!
Competing for a slice of the Strip's transportation action
are numerous four-wheeled trolleys that resemble cable cars.
These air-conditioned trolleys run the length of the Strip -
from the Stratosphere at the northern end to Mandalay Bay
hotel-casino at the southern end.
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Las Vegas
Further Reading
- Nevada: A History by Robert Laxalt: A somewhat
idiosyncratic but entertaining history of the Silver
State.
- Deserts by James A MacMahon: This book gives a
fine overview of the southwestern deserts as well as being
a field guide to the most important plants and animals of
these regions.
- Hiking Las Vegas by Anthony Curtis: Contains
descriptions of 60 hikes within 60 minutes of the Strip.
- Comp City: A Guide to Free Las Vegas Vacations
by Max Rubin: If you've rocked into town without much
cash, this book tells you how to garner casino freebies
such as rooms, meals and shows.
- Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas by Hunter S
Thompson: Hunter S Thompson's tripped-out classic skates
from ludicrous excess to sublime observations of America's
most hallucinogenic city.
- Casino by Nicholas Pileggi: An intriguing book
that describes the fall of organised crime in Las Vegas'
casinos.
- The Everything Casino Gambling Book by George
Mandos: This manual describes the rules and etiquette for
all the casino games played in Las Vegas, with tips on how
to beat the house.
- Welcome to the Pleasuredome by David Spanmier:
If you've ever wondered who's playing with the serious
money, this book profiles some of Las Vegas' high rollers,
its movers and shakers and their excesses.
- Learning from Las Vegas by Robert Venturi: An
architectural historian reveals the sacred and profane
iconography of The Strip.
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