Tucson , United States

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Tucson sits, air-conditioning itself, in the middle of the spectacular topography of the American Southwest: canyons, wind-sculpted cliffs, hushed deserts, forests of towering saguaro cacti and an astonishing diversity of birdlife (including 16 species of hummingbird alone).

This city has survived the discipline of a Spanish fortress, the embarrassing millinery and trigger-finger lawlessness of the Wild West, and an exasperating century of drunken student mischief, and has somehow managed to emerge with a vibrant legacy of Hispanic and traditional Indian cultures.

Tucson's ethnic pleasures can be enjoyed in the form of exquisitely hand-crafted turquoise jewellery, a mouthful of chile rellenos (cheese-stuffed, deep-fried chiles) or mole (chile sauce flavoured with chocolate, usually found swamping chicken), the brilliant white facade of the historic Mission San Xavier del Bac, two-stepping lessons in a country & western juke joint, or the roar of the crowd at a U of A Wildcats basketball match. And if you need further convincing that a visit is worthwhile, you can also indulge all of your regular holiday vices in this urban oasis, whether it's hitting a hiking trail or hitting the tequila slammers.

Area: 195 sq km
Population: 486,700
Country: USA
Time Zone: GMT/UTC -7 (Mountain Standard Time)
Telephone Area Code: 520
 

Orientation

 

Flattened out along the floor of a mountain-fenced valley deep in the heart of southwestern USA's 'Grand Canyon State', otherwise known as Arizona, is the arid urban grid of Tucson. The city is squeezed between the western and eastern halves of Saguaro National Park, dominated respectively by the Tucson Mountains and the Rincons, while to the north is the much-visited arc of the Santa Catalina Mountains and to the south is the Santa Ritas range. Further south, a full 61mi (100km) from Tucson, is the border with the Mexican state of Sonora, which is straddled by the dual-citizenship town of Nogales. The nearest domestic border is the one shared with New Mexico, roughly 130mi (210km) east along interstate highway 10 (I-10).

Tucson is Arizona's second-biggest city but it has a compact downtown area, bisected north-south by Stone Ave and east-west by Congress St and Broadway Blvd. In the 'irrelevant information' section of your brain, you may want to file away the fact that the majority of north-south thoroughfares in the city proper are called avenues, while most of the east-west roads are called streets. About 1mi (1.5km) northeast of downtown is the museum-heavy campus of the University of Arizona. An equal distance south of the centre is the predominantly Hispanic area of South Tucson - relatively few visitors venture out here, which means they miss out on the cheap and tasty Mexican cookery offered by local restaurants. Tucson's far northern limits are occupied by the pricier suburbs, as well as several country clubs for those of us with inverted nostrils; the southern limits are occupied by oxymoronic industrial parks and a US airforce base.

Tucson International Airport is 9mi (14.5km) south of downtown. The iconic Greyhound bus company has its commuter-scarred terminal right in downtown on 4th Ave, just south of the Tucson Amtrak railway station.

 


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Tucson

When to Go

 

Tucson's high season lasts from mid-December to May, which is when the area's mild and sunny wintertime - coupled with the prospect of skiing at nearby Mt Lemmon - attracts North American residents from chillier, more-snowbound climes. You'll pay premium prices for hotel accommodation over this period. Other peak visitor times are major public holidays like the Memorial Day weekend (end of May) and the Labor Day weekend (beginning of September).

The period from May to September is far less popular with visitors - regardless of the fact that local hotels slash their room rates at this time - because this is when the city is at its hottest. Summer temperatures in south-central Arizona are among the highest in the USA, with the daily heat frequently surpassing 100°F (38°C) and occasionally blazing beyond 120°F (49°C). July and August can also bring monsoonal storms that contribute brief but heavy afternoon downpours. That said, Tucson is fortunate in that it resides at an altitude of 2500ft (750m), so its climate is a tad milder than that of lower-lying destinations such as the state capital Phoenix to the north. The region also has low humidity (referred to in Tucson as dry heat), which means that come nightfall the heat dissipates and temperatures drop markedly.

 


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Events

 

If you're one of those people who are entertained by the spectacle of a small white ball being clubbed around some manicured paddocks, you'll want to be in Tucson in mid-January for the Tucson Open, a men's Professional Golfer's Association (PGA) tournament - the equivalent women's PGA tournament takes place in mid-March. Earthy types descend on the city over the first two weeks of February to take in exhibits at the Tucson Gem & Mineral Show, one of the biggest displays of shiny rubble in the country. La Fiesta de los Vaqueros, also known as Rodeo Week, is held from the last Thursday of February to the following Sunday, when Tucson puts on a smorgasbord (make that BBQ) of cowboy/girl events, along with what's billed as the world's largest nonmotorised parade.

In early March, the historic Mission San Xavier del Bac to the south of town is the venue for the Wa:k Powwow Conference, a singing, dancing and eating extravaganza staged by the local Tohono O'odham tribe for all the Indian communities living in the region. The mission also sets the scene for a number of religious ceremonies throughout the year, including the Friday after Easter, Christmas and the Fiesta of San Xavier in early December. On 5 May, South Tucson resounds with Hispanic parades, street stalls and concerts in celebration of Cinco de Mayo, the anniversary of Mexico's defeat of France in 1862's Battle of Puebla.

Downtown Saturday Night, an event organised by businesses in the local arts district, hits the streets (specifically the stretches of Congress St and Broadway Blvd between Stone and 4th Aves) on the first and third Saturday of each month between 7pm and 10pm. It entails free street performances and extended opening hours for art galleries in the area.

Public Holidays
first Mon in Sep - Labor Day
fourth Thu in Nov - Thanksgiving
25 Dec - Christmas Day
11 Nov - Veterans’ Day
second Mon in Oct - Columbus Day
second Mon in Oct - Independence Day
last Mon in May - Memorial Day
third Mon in Feb - Presidents’ Day
third Mon in Jan - Martin Luther King Jr Day
1 Jan - New Year’s Day
 

 


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Tucson

Attractions

Downtown

Tucson grew up around a large presidio (walled fort) that was built by the Spanish in 1775 to house a garrison charged with protecting settlers from the Indians. This piece of military architecture, dubbed Old Pueblo by later Anglo arrivals, is no longer standing, but the easily walkable Presidio Historic District is nonetheless home to a number of other interesting historic buildings. The oldest structure in the area, raised up from the ground over 150 years ago, is thought to be La Casa Cordova. You can check out its aged interior via the adjacent Tucson Museum of Art, which has some worthwhile permanent exhibits of contemporary art, attention-getting multimedia displays and pre-Columbian artefacts exhumed from the archaeologically rich soils of Latin America. The museum displays more of its collection in nearby Fish House, built in 1868 by politician Edward Fish, and in the similar-vintage Stevens House - both were seminal establishments for the late-19th century Tucson social scene.

South of the presidio district is the distracting modernistic bulk of the Tucson Convention Centre. At the centre's northwestern end you'll find the Sosa-Carillo-Frémont House Museum, a restored 1880s period home run by the Arizona Historical Society. The house's triple-barrelled moniker is a tribute to its first three owners, namely the families Sosa and Carillo, followed by one-time Arizona governor John Frémont. Further south is the Barrio Historico District, the city's centre of commerce in the late 1800s and still a neighbourhood with business on its mind. Just off Cushing St is El Tiradito, a weird and fairly decrepit little shrine piously devoted to a man who was murdered here by his father-in-law after being caught having an affair with his mother-in-law. Paradoxically, people burn candles here in an effort to make their wishes come true.


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Pima Air & Space Museum

Aviation nuts should head to the Pima Air & Space Museum, a 60ha (150ac) site that qualifies as one of the world's largest collections of aircraft, with over 250 carefully restored flying machines on display. Pride of place goes to the WWII memorial hangars, which house items like the B-24 Liberator and the bombastically named B-29 Superfortress bomber.

It's not just planes that are on show here, though, as you can also stare at the engineered dimensions of helicopters, hang gliders, ultra-lights and even home-built experimental vehicles.

Pima also runs the Titan Missile Museum, the only remaining underground Titan missile silo in the US, which can be found on the I-19 south of Tucson in the retirement community of Green Valley. Propeller-heads should also book themselves onto a bus tour next door to the air/space museum at the Davis-Monthan Air Force Base, where a staggering 5000 aircraft are stored.


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Tucson Botanical Gardens

The 5.5ac (2.2ha) landscaped, wheelchair-accessible terrain of the Botanical Gardens is in a reasonably busy part of the city, yet man-made noise fails to penetrate very far into the garden's pleasant groves of native dry-land plants. The organic highlights of a day-dreamy meander through the grounds include a tropical greenhouse and a small herb garden.

About 2.5mi (4km) south of the botanical gardens is their environmental sibling, the small but highly recommended Reid Park Zoo. This well-looked-after zoological community yields a captivating array of captive animals from all over the globe, including giant anteaters and pygmy hippos, and the surrounding parkland is enticingly outfitted with playgrounds, picnic areas and a paddleboat-trafficked duck pond.

Set up near the Catalina Foothills, just beyond the shopping malls and other suburban developments on the northern outskirts of Tucson, is Tohono Chul Park. This Arizona-Sonora Desert habitat has a variety of gardens, a plant shop, an exhibition room and knowledgeable guides who regularly lead tours among the unique flora and fauna.


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University of Arizona

The U of A has over 35,000 students, who collectively help keep the local economy ticking over nicely. A handful of these allegedly learned folk are also responsible for the annual whitewashing of the enormously prominent letter 'A' on nearby Sentinel Peak (colloquially known as 'A Mountain'), a freshmen practice ongoing since 1915. But visitors to Tucson will be far more interested in the several excellent museums and sundry outdoor sculptures scattered across the university's sprawling inner-city campus.

If you're seriously interested in American photography, make an appointment to ransack the archives of the Center for Creative Photography, where you can blink reverently at images taken by celebrated snappers like Ansel Adams and Edward Weston. Those who are less camera-savvy can just take in one of the regular exhibits of famous photographic works in the Center's small but highly esteemed gallery. Across Olive Rd from the photography centre is the University of Arizona Museum of Art, where students are able to gauge the general public's reaction to their artistic ambitions; the museum also has a nice collection of sculpture and European art.

For anthropological insights into the Indian tribes of southwestern USA, head for the Arizona State Museum. Those interested in a holistic view of Tucson's past should consider the Spanish colonial, Mexican and American urban insights provided by the Arizona Historical Society Museum. At the Flandrau Science Center, Planetarium & Mineral Museum, kids will get a kick out of the hands-on science displays, while stranded extra-terrestrials can get homesick over meteorite fragments and laser-lit distant worlds.


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Tucson

Off the Beaten Track

Mission San Xavier del Bac

On the San Xavier Indian Reservation are the dazzling bleached walls of the Mission San Xavier del Bac, the finest example of Spanish colonial architecture in Arizona and also one of the state's oldest European buildings. The mission is at its most colourful when religious ceremonies are held here, though note that no photography is allowed at these times.

The mission was built around 1700 by Jesuit priest Eusebio Francisco Kino, but was mostly destroyed during a Pima Indian uprising in 1751. It was rebuilt in its current form in the late-18th century and is subject to ongoing restoration, with particular attention being paid to the interior frescoes.


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Saguaro National Park

This national park is actually two parks, Saguaro East (also called the Rincon Mountain District) and Saguaro West (also called the Tucson Mountain District), which are separated by 30mi (48km) and the city of Tucson. The area is named after the indigenous saguaro cactus, which takes almost a century to grow into its distinctive, five-storey-high, multi-limbed adult shape, and is home to such varied birdlife as woodpeckers and cactus wrens. Desert-dwelling Indians also appropriate the cactus' fruit to make jam and wine. Saguaro National Park is riddled with secluded hiking trails, including the short Desert Ecology Nature Trail and the steep Tanque Verde Ridge Trail in the eastern section, and the King Canyon trailhead in the west.

Located off the road leading from Tucson into Saguaro West is the International Wildlife Museum, though the suffix 'life' is a little misleading. The museum is a professional monument to taxidermy, containing the stuffed and mounted remains of hundreds of animals from all over the world; documentaries are also screened here. A few kilometres further into the park are the resurrected Old Tucson Studios, once a bustling film set where hundreds of Westerns were produced from 1939 (as well as TV series like The High Chaparral), and now a popular theme park complete with stagecoach rides and rehearsed shootouts.


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Santa Catalina Mountains

The splendid Santa Catalinas, part of Arizona's expansive Coronado National Forest, are sandwiched between Tucson and, appropriately, the Tortilla Mountains. An outdoor nirvana for the many Tucson residents who want to escape the pain of indoor office-work or domestics, this mountain range encourages such relaxing activities as hiking, horse riding, bird watching and navel gazing. The most popular access point from Tucson is Sabino Canyon, a water-sluiced cutting serviced by a scenic 4mi (6.5km) road, numerous riverside picnic grounds and lots of lengthy hiking trails leading to higher ground. At the canyon entrance is an information-stocked visitor centre and ranger station.

A more remote locale for hiking and camping is Catalina State Park, 15mi (24km) north of Tucson in the Santa Catalina's western foothills. The area offers a range of day and multi-day walks, and some of the trails have attractive added extras such as swimming holes. The highpoint of the mountain range - and a favoured getaway year-round - is Mt Lemmon, which stretches up to 9157ft (2750m). In summer you can spend several days walking up to the summit's great views, or alternatively drive there in a single hour, while in winter the mountainside is transformed into the southernmost ski resort in the USA.


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Tucson

Activities

Binocular-equipped Audubon disciples will have a field day (or two) with the local birdlife, such as hummingbirds, road-runners (sans coyote) and elf owls. Physically more-demanding pastimes include hiking one or more of the many trails winding up into the nearby mountain ranges, rock climbing or skiing on Mt Lemmon, overnight horse riding excursions (accompanied by cook-outs under the stars) and hot-air ballooning over the remarkable landscape of southern Arizona. A number of Tucson-based companies also offer jeep tours of the desertscape.


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Tucson

History

Indian oral histories relate a mythical version of how humans first came to the region by hitching a ride with an accommodating constellation, but the oldest physical evidence of habitation in southwestern USA dates from 9000 BC; it's likely, though, that man lumbered into the area even earlier than this. Agriculture developed from 3000 BC after local hunter-gatherers made contact with farmers in what is now central Mexico and by 300 BC a number of semi-permanent villages had begun to pop up. The chief cultures at this ancient time were the desert Hohokam, the Mogollon of the central mountains and valleys (including the area occupied by Tucson today) and the Ancestral Puebloan who preferred the northern plateaus, with various other smaller groups resulting from genetic blendings of the main ones. But within a millennium and a half, most had disappeared due to a combination of severe drought, overhunting, disease and the arrival of new groups.

Beginning in the 14th century, nomadic Indians from the Shoshonean and Athapaskan language groups made their way into the region from the north and it's from these that the majority of current tribes are descended - the Navajo and assorted Apache tribes of Arizona have Athapaskan lineage, for example. Bar the odd violent disagreement, the Indians coexisted fairly peaceably with the resident Pueblo peoples, the former trading their hunting knowledge for the latter's expertise in agriculture, weaving and pottery. But social upheaval was on the cards the moment that the Spanish began conducting incursions into the area from Mexico, the milestone event being the 1540 wealth-seeking expedition of Francisco Vásquez de Coronado, which lasted for two years but failed to find any sign of fantastic riches. Fifty years later, a group of hundreds of European settlers moseyed their way up the Rio Grande to begin populating an area they called New Mexico.

Present-day southern Arizona and its Indian inhabitants - the Tohono O'odham (called the Papago until 1986) and the Pima Indians - started receiving the European touch via the holier-than-thou hands of Jesuit priest Eusebio Francisco Kino, who began a two-decade-long missionary project in the Arizona-Sonora Desert in 1687, including the building of the Mission San Xavier del Bac in 1700. The 18th century saw a period of prolonged conflict between Indian tribes, broken only by battles between them and the Spanish. A dramatic increase in settler numbers culminated in the Pima rebellion of 1751, when the Indians killed or drove out many of the foreigners. In response, the Spaniards established a presidio that became the cornerstone for the city of Tucson, its name derived from an earlier Indian village on this site called Stujkshon (pronounced 'Took Son' by the Spanish).

In 1821 Mexico gained its independence from Spain and in 1853, five years after the Mexican-American war, the Gadsden Purchase saw 'ownership' of southern Arizona transferred to the USA - Arizona was officially declared a separate US territory in 1863, eventually followed by statehood in 1912. American domination was anathema to the Indian population, which was brutally evicted from its traditional lands despite intense resistance. The last tribe to be vanquished were the Geronimo-led Apaches, who surrendered in 1886. The Indians were eventually returned some of their land in the form of reservations - the largest such allotment in the US belongs to the Navajo tribe and is spread across parts of Arizona, New Mexico and Utah, while southwest of Tucson in the Arizona-Sonora Desert is the sizeable Tohono O'odham reservation.

The establishment of coach services by the Butterfield Stage Company in the mid-19th century, plus the construction of Fort Lowell soon after to help subdue the Apaches; there was an influx of non-Hispanic whites into Tucson and a subsequent lack of law and order in a legendary period known as the Wild West, emblemised by the 1881 gunfight at the OK Corral in the nearby town of Tombstone. The so-called gunslinger days soon came to an end, however, with the 1891 closure of rowdy Fort Lowell coinciding with the opening of Tucson's first university.

The city continued its process of gentrification right up to WWII, when the Davis-Monthan Air Force base busily trained young new recruits, many of them returning to settle down after the war was over. The base remained a mainstay of the local economy, and helped fuel the growth that made Tucson the state's second largest city.

Today, Tucson can draw on a well-established Hispanic heritage, which is shared by around a fifth of the city's population, and an equally significant traditional Indian culture.

Modern industries include the production of missile systems and the development of computer-ware by the locally based IBM Corporation. The University of Arizona is another economic drawcard, as is a tourism industry helped along by an impressive local arts and crafts scene.


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Tucson

Getting There & Away

Tucson's low-key international airport, which is bereft of significant international facilities bar immigrations and customs, is situated 14.5km (9mi) south of the city centre. Airlines like America West, Continental and Aero-Mexico operate numerous flights from here over the border to mainstream Mexican destinations, but the majority of the airport's traffic is created via domestic routes that link Tucson with regional cities like Phoenix, Salt Lake City, Las Vegas and Albuquerque, and other US cities further afield.

The trip from the airport into town, or vice versa, can be easily tackled by local bus (though with at least one transfer en-route) for the paltry sum of 01:00. If time is not on your side, consider using the 24-hour Arizona Stagecoach van service, which will pick-up/deposit door-to-door for between 10:00 and 20:00, depending on where you are in the substantial Tucson metropolitan area - double the price of the Stagecoach fare to estimate the cost of using a cab for the same journey.

Greyhound buses run from its downtown terminal northwest to Phoenix and then further west to California, as well as east along the I-10 into New Mexico and southwards to connect with vans heading to Nogales on the Mexican border. From Tucson's Amtrak railway station, you can catch the Sunset Limited service west as far as Los Angeles and east as far as New Orleans; it passes through town three times a week.


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Getting Around

The local bus company is called Sun Tran and its vehicles operate daily from early morning into the early evening, but there are no buses running at night. The standard fare is 01:00, which comes with a free transfer. Sun Tran also runs a single trolley-car route through the downtown area. Car rentals can be arranged at the airport, where all major hire companies have representative branches. Tucson caters well to cyclists, with an extensive system of bike lanes along major roads and some buses equipped with bike racks - you can rent road or mountain bikes from various shops around town.


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