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Washington
DC
, United States
Radio Sawt
Beirut International presents tourism information about the United States of
America.
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If civic politics is the American religion, then Washington DC is the
nation's holy city. White houses, capital and pentagonal buildings, supreme
courts - these monumental Lego shrines are rarefied with real power. A
patriotic combination of history and histrionics: BYO wiretap.
To some, Washington means white marble, verdant lawns, and the colourful,
ritualistic pageantry of American politics: the Capitol dome gleaming
against an azure sky; limousine processions on Inauguration Day; the
mournful, sombre, stately changing of the guard at Arlington National
Cemetery.
Yet Washington is no mere political ornament. It is also a city, a city
where ordinary and extraordinary people live, work and play, a city of
vibrant and beautiful neighbourhoods where the federal government and its
machinery are merely backdrops to life, not the main-stage drama. After
visitors have explored the wonders of the Smithsonian Institution's 14
museums (always free!), strolled through the halls of power, and played
spot-the-senator in famous eateries, delightful districts like Dupont
Circle, Adams-Morgan and Georgetown offer opportunities to meet ordinary
folks, tour lovely historic buildings, and dive into fabulous world cuisine.
Area: 170 sq km
Population: 570,000
Country: USA
Time Zone: GMT/UTC -5 (Eastern Time)
Telephone Area Code: 202
Orientation
Washington is plonked down in the District of Columbia, a little enclave
chopped from the state of Maryland. It is bounded on one side by the Potomac
River (on the other side of the river you'll find Arlington and Alexandria,
Virginia) and on the other sides by the state of Maryland. The city covers
170sq km (65sq mi).
Washington is ringed by a freeway bypass called the Beltway, which
divides the urban insiders from the suburbanites. The Capitol isn't just the
symbolic centre of Washington: from here the city is divided into four
compass-point quadrants along axes following N Capitol St, E Capitol St, S
Capitol St and the Mall. Identical addresses appear in all four quadrants,
so you need to know the directional component of the address you want.
Streets are arranged on a grid of north-south numbered streets and
east-west lettered streets. This grid is overlaid by broad diagonal avenues.
The geometric pattern is further interrupted by traffic circles that add to
the city's appeal but can make DC a challenging place for outsiders to
navigate by car.
Most tourist sights are located around the Capitol, along the Mall and in
the Northwest quadrant. Downtown includes the monuments dotting the Mall but
is otherwise strictly business. Dupont Circle is an upscale business and
residential address with a groovy fringe; Adams-Morgan is bohemian, funky
and international; Shaw has historically elite residential areas and
ghettos, and Georgetown has pristine historic houses, a university and
lively bars. With Northwest quadrant real estate spiralling out of control,
Brookland and the Northeast quadrant are showing promising development.
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Washington DC
When to Go
The most comfortable times to visit Washington are in spring (March
to May) and fall (September to November). The official tourist season
runs from April through September. It's a good idea to buy advance
tickets to popular attractions during this period because the queues can
be monstrous.
Summers are hot and humid, especially in July and August. If you can
bear the heat, this can be a good time to visit, as business travel to
DC slumps and accommodation rates fall accordingly. Snowman aficionados
may get a kick out of winter. If you plan on being in town for the
city's biggest events - the Cherry Blossom Festival in March, the
Smithsonian Folklife Festival in June and Independence Day in July -
book ahead.
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Events
Washington is a world stage, with international media poised for an
'event' any time the President dons his jogging shoes. But besides these
spontaneous little excitements, Washington also hosts big-scale,
half-crazy, half-democratic events that reel in everyone from Texan
brigades to teachers' unions, pro-lifers, priests and peaceniks, cult
and world leaders. And some of these events have changed the nation's
history...
Regular features on the DC calender include the beloved Cherry
Blossom Festival in March-April and the Smithsonian's Folklife Festival
in June. Independence Day is a grand event, including a troops parade,
the reading of the Declaration of Independence, concerts and fireworks
over the Potomac. Other highlights include Martin Luther King Jr Day on
the third Monday in January, when orators recite King's 'I have a dream'
speech at the Lincoln Memorial; the Smithsonian Kite Festival (late
March), when kite designers, flyers and competitors gather on the Mall
for this rite of spring; April's White House Easter Egg Roll, which the
First Lady hosts for children between three and six; and the Festival of
American Folk Life, hosted by the Smithsonian on the last weekend in
June.
In September, Adams-Morgan Day is a raging international block party
with global music, food and crafts along and around 18th St NW and
Columbia Rd. This is also the month for the National Frisbee Festival
(watch your head when wandering the Mall) and the DC Blues Festival
(free concerts around town). On the second Thursday in December, the
President illuminates the national Christmas tree and lights a menorah
on the Ellipse. There's outdoor partying on New Year's Eve at the Old
Post Office.
Mar/Apr - Easter
25 Dec - Christmas Day
first Monday in Sep - Labor Day
third Monday in Jan - Martin Luther King Jr Day
third Monday in Feb - Presidents' Day
1 Jan - New Year's Day
20 January, every fourth year - Inauguration Day
11 Nov - Veterans' Day
second Monday in October - Columbus Day
fourth Thursday in Nov - Thanksgiving Day
4 Jul - Independence Day
last Monday in May - Memorial Day
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Radio
Sawt Beirut International presents tourism information about the
United States of America.
Real Player |
Media Player
|
Sawt Beirut Player
Listen to Radio Sawt Beirut International by clicking at one of the
links.
Daily news from Lebanon "
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Attractions
Capitol
Political centre of the US government and geographic centre of DC
itself, the United States Capitol sits atop a hill overlooking the
National Mall. The building is accessible by guided tours, which
visit the dramatic Rotunda, Statuary Hall and the old Supreme Court
chamber. The tour ends downstairs in the Crypt, which has exhibits
on the Capitol's history.
Three years after Thomas Jefferson and Alexander Hamilton decided
that Washington should house the nation's capital in 1790,
construction began on the grand Capitol that was to grace the hill
east of the Potomac. By the turn of the century, the movers, shakers
and lawmakers began to move in. The British nearly burned it to the
ground in 1814, which demoralised the Americans almost enough to
provoke the abandonment of the whole DC experiment. However, some
last-minute resolve saw the Capitol rebuilt from 1817 to 1819. The
House and Senate wings were added in 1857, the nine-million-pound
iron dome in 1863 and the east face in the 1950s, making the current
icon over twice as large as the original building. The Capitol is
the epicentre of the city as well as being its most prominent
landmark; Washington's major avenues intersect at an imaginary point
under the dome. If you want to watch Congress in session, you'll
have to get a pass for the visitors' gallery from your Congressional
Representative (if you have one) or the Sergeant-at-Arms (if you
don't).
The dramatic Capitol Rotunda is decorated with a fresco painted
by Italian immigrant Constantino Brumidi. Called The Apotheosis
of Washington, it shows George Washington being welcomed into
heaven by 13 angels representing the original 13 states (and
apparently modelled on 13 local prostitutes). The hallways are
decorated with more murals, showing the nation's heroes and their
deeds - the most recent is a portrait of the dead Challenger
astronauts. Statuary Hall is filled with stone men - theoretically
two distinguished citizens from each state, but in principal a few
less than that, as the floor wasn't strong enough to bear the weight
of so much marble.
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Federal Bureau of Investigation
Nobody votes for its agents, but there's no doubt the Federal
Bureau of Investigation wields serious power. Officially named the J
Edgar Hoover FBI Building (after the notorious director who made the
FBI the crime-fighting bureaucracy it is today), the Bureau's
headquarters are at 10th and Pennsylvania NW.
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Library of Congress
A block east of the Capitol, the Library of Congress has about
100 million items, including 26 million books, 36 million
manuscripts and maps, photographs, sheet music and musical
instruments. It's the largest library in the world. Books from the
library were used to light the 1814 Capitol fire, after which
President Jefferson sold his collection to the library to get the
numbers back up. The best part of the library is the 1897 Jefferson
Building, with its vaulted ceilings and ornate decoration. Two
modern annexes are nearby. The library screens free classic films,
and occasionally concerts are given using the library's five
Stradivarius violins.
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Lincoln Memorial
The inspirational Lincoln Memorial embodies the American ideal of
freedom, tolerance and charity. It is a powerful symbol and the
giant seated Abraham Lincoln statue confers a strange resonating
ambience.
The memorial is much more than a monument to the 16th US
president. Completed in 1922, it quickly became a symbol of
America's commitment to civil rights. From its steps in 1963, Martin
Luther King Jr preached, 'I have a dream...' Designed to resemble a
Greek temple, the monument's 36 columns represent the 36 states in
Lincoln's union. The hands of the 19ft statue read A and L in
American Sign Language to honor Lincoln's support for the Gallaudet
College for the Deaf.
The Memorial closes the west end of the picture-postcard view
down the Mall from the US Capitol and the Washington Monument. It is
a temple to the man who saved the nation that he called 'the last
best hope on Earth'. This is best expressed through his elegant
words that run along the north and south wall of the chamber,
including his masterpiece, the famous Gettysburg Address.
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Smithsonian Institution
More than 150 years old, the massive, 16-museum Smithsonian is
DC's premier attraction. Far more than a complex of museums, the
Smithsonian is also a vast research and educational institution that
cares for approximately 140 million artworks, scientific specimens,
artefacts and other objects.
Its 14 DC museums and the Smithsonian-run National Zoological
Park together draw millions of visitors each year, and they also
offer year-round calendars of films, lectures, kids' activities and
other programs, most free.
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Vietnam Veterans Memorial
Dedicated in 1982, this sombre arrow of black stone has become an
American pilgrimage site. A testament to the sacrifice of soldiers
during America's least popular war, the memorial's two walls of
polished Indian granite meet in a 10ft apex and are inscribed with
the names of the 58,209 soldiers killed in the war, arranged
chronologically by date of death.
The most moving remembrances are the notes, medals and mementos
left by survivors, family and friends since the memorial was
completed in 1982. Opponents to the design insisted that a more
traditional sculpture be added; a memorial to the women who served
in the war was another later addition.
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Washington Monument
For a top-notch view of the Potomac Basin, make your way up the
555ft (166m) Washington Monument. This white obelisk rising from the
centre of the Mall was begun in 1848, but not completed for 37
years. The project was derailed by antipapists who opposed Pope Pius
IX's contributions, then the Civil War interrupted. There's an
elevator ride to the top, and you can walk back down a staircase
lined with plaques from all the states, plus one from the Cherokee
Nation. While the monument itself is accessible, the grounds are
currently closed for security enhancements.
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White House
Every US president since John Adams has lived in this 132-room
mansion at America's most famous address. Its stature has grown
through the years: no longer a mere residence, it's now the central
icon of the American presidency.
The Presidential Palace – as it was once known – has changed a
great deal over history (and with its changing residents). It was
not originally white, for example. After the British burnt the
building in the War of 1812, it was restored and painted. It was
Teddy Roosevelt who later gave official sanction to the executive
mansion's popular name.
Presidents have customised the property over time: Grant put in a
personal zoo; FDR added a pool; Truman a balcony; Bush Snr a
horseshoe-throwing lane; and Clinton a jogging track. Some residents
never leave: it's said that Eleanor Roosevelt and Harry Truman both
sighted Lincoln's ghost in Abe's old study.
Back before Herbert Hoover's era, presidents used to open the
doors at noon each day to shake visitors' hands. Alas, no longer.
Daily tours of the White House have been suspended since 9-11
(although Laura Bush conducts a video tour at the White House
Visitor Center).
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Washington DC
Off the Beaten Track
Arlington
A quick jaunt across the Potomac from the capital and you'll
be in Arlington, home of the Pentagon, Arlington National
Cemetery and the Kennedy gravesites. If major monuments don't
grab you, the distinct flavours of Arlington's different
neighbourhoods will.
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Bethesda
Until relatively recently Bethesda was a quiet Maryland town,
but it has grown to become one of the largest, most influential
and most affluent suburban communities in the nation. Despite
its sophisticated modern trappings, some of Bethesda's most
appealing spots remain its old-time attractions, such as the old
movie theatre, classic diner and renowned crab shacks. The movie
theatre is a real treat: it presents second-run films and family
matinees in its huge old movie house outfitted with cafe tables
and swivel chairs. You can even order pitchers of beer and
nachos in the dark (servers dial it in on lighted computer
pads).
The Metrorail makes Bethesda one of the most accessible
suburbs for Washington visitors. It's about 10mi (16km)
northwest of the city via cosmopolitan Wisconsin Ave.
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C&O Canal National Historic Park
The scenic and historic C&O Canal runs from Georgetown, a
northwestern neighbourhood of DC, 184mi (296km) to Cumberland,
Maryland. Originally envisioned as part of a never-completed
western passage joining Chesapeake Bay and the Ohio River, the
C&O Canal contains 74 lift locks that rise from near sea level
to an elevation of 605ft (180m). A dusty towpath alongside the
canal was trod by children (paid four cents a day by some
accounts) leading mules, who in turn pulled barges through the
canal. The advent of the railroads rendered the canal obsolete.
Today the canal corridor along the Potomac is preserved as a
national park and is a major recreational resource for hikers,
cyclists, boaters, backpackers and horse riders. Georgetown
isn't easily accessible by public transport, though it's a nice
walk west along Pennsylvania Ave from the Foggy Bottom station
when the weather is decent.
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Washington DC
History
The US Congress met in a variety of cities -
Philadelphia, New York and Princeton among them - before the
fledgling republic was ready to commit to a permanent seat
of government. Congress chose the Potomac as a natural
midpoint that would satisfy both northern and southern
states (whose cultural and political differences were
apparent well before the Civil War of 1861-1865). This spot
had the added benefit of being across the river from George
Washington's home in Mount Vernon.
Folks started referring to it as 'the city of Washington'
around 1791 and the name stuck. Maryland and Virginia agreed
to cede land to create the District of Columbia (named for
Christopher Columbus), and an area 'ten miles square' (26 sq
km) was laid out by African American mathematician Benjamin
Banneker and surveyor Andrew Ellicott. French engineer
Pierre Charles L'Enfant was hired to design the city and
though his elegant plan was widely admired, he quickly ran
afoul of local politics. After L'Enfant was fired, Banneker
continued to carry out L'Enfant's plans.
Work started on the ornate Capitol in 1793, but it was
barely complete when British troops torched it in the War of
1812. Though the Capitol was eventually rebuilt, the city
entered a slump from which it wouldn't recover for decades.
A dispirited vote to abandon the capital lost by only nine
votes. Charles Dickens visited and dismissed DC as 'the City
of Magnificent Distances', complaining about 'spacious
avenues that begin in nothing and lead nowhere; streets,
milelong, that only want houses, roads, and inhabitants;
public buildings that need but a public'.
The Civil War focused attention on Washington, bringing
bivouacs, temporary hospitals and armies to its outskirts.
The war's chaos and expense led Washingtonians to wonder
whether construction of the elaborate Capitol dome might not
be suspended. President Lincoln responded, 'If people see
the Capitol going on, it is a sign we intend the Union shall
go on.' In the war's aftermath, the Great Emancipator was
assassinated in Ford's Theater (a memorial flag remains
draped over the theatre box shrine today) and the role of
the US capital changed from state-led administration to
centralised leadership.
The town's ailing infrastructure was overhauled in the
1870s by territorial governor Alexander 'Boss' Shepherd,
whose extravagant use of federal funds and penchant for
steamrolling anything in his way led to a crackdown by
Congress that robbed DC of self-government for another 100
years. For the citizenry, it was a high price to pay for a
city beginning to look like it might fulfil L'Enfant's
original vision of a world-class capital.
A beautification plan at the start of the 20th century
added most of the landscaping, parks, and monuments for
which Washington is now well known. Nevertheless, until
recently Washington suffered from its image as a Southern
backwater. The Kennedy Center, established as a 'living
memorial' to JFK, did much to bring cosmopolitan culture to
the place.
The city's intense and divisive political climate is
downright romantic to political activists. Spectacular free
art is visible at every turn. DC has evolved into a national
pilgrimage centre for many citizens (as was intended). Yet
Washington is notorious too for the many severe problems
that trouble its residents. Poverty, crime and racial
segregation in the shadow of glorious monuments proclaiming
'equality for all' embarrass those who would hope to hold
the nation's capital up as a model. Washington, DC, is no
paragon, but it is a microcosm - of the grand ideals and
grim realities of the nation.
The nineties saw Washington fall into a disarray from
which recovery has been slow. Mayor Marion Barry was
videotaped smoking crack and the city was nicknamed the
'Murder Capital' as gang warfare became common on the
streets. However, under the more low-key Mayor Williams,
elected in 1999, Washington began to pull out of its decline
and return to stability, assisted by nationwide boom times.
On September 11, 2001, terrorists attacked Washington,
flying a hijacked United Airlines aircraft into the
Pentagon, causing significant damage and killing all aboard
the plane. A further plane crash-landed near Shanksville,
Pennsylvania, it too was intended to hit a Washington
target. On the same day two hijacked planes destroyed New
York's twin towers, killing thousands of people. The
terrorist attacks were the worst ever on US soil.
Despite security remaining high around Washington's key
monuments, it is clear that the city has gone a long way
towards repairing both the Pentagon and its damaged psyche,
with visitors returning and hotels refilling. And, while
crime remains a problem and District finances still need
help, Washington's city is once more a place to live, not
just to visit.
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Washington DC
Getting There & Away
DC is serviced by three major airports: Ronald Reagan
Washington National Airport (DCA), Baltimore-Washington
International Airport (BWI) and Washington Dulles
International Airport (IAD). Amtrak trains will get you
to DC - Union Station is Amtrak's 'flagship' station,
and has some great travel resources to offer visitors.
Bus-wise, Greyhound and Trailways will also get you
there without fuss.
There are three major airports in the capitol region;
all three are within 55 km (34mi) of Washington DC.
Baltimore-Washington International Airport (BWI) is
located in Linticum, Maryland, 16km (10mi) south of
downtown Baltimore and 48km (30mi) northeast of
Washington. Washington Dulles International Airport
(pronounced 'DULL-uss') (IAD) is in Herndon, Virginia,
40km (25mi) west of Washington. By far the most
convenient airport for Washington visitors is Ronald
Reagan Washington National Airport (DCA), which is right
on the Potomac River near Arlington National Cemetery.
National Airport is a regional airport and doesn't offer
international flights, except to and from Canada.
Limousines, shuttle vans and taxis will take you
between downtown Washington and all three airports. The
fast and frequent Metro serves Reagan Washington
National Airport directly; shuttles connect Dulles with
Metro stations. Amtrak train service is available
between Baltimore-Washington Airport and Washington.
Amtrak provides frequent rail service along the busy
Eastern Seaboard corridor from Boston, Massachusetts, to
Washington. You'll generally find efficient,
well-maintained trains and convenient stations. Rates
and travel times between many destinations along this
route are competitive with air travel, especially
considering that train stations are centrally located in
major cities. Union Station in Washington is Amtrak's
'flagship' station, and offers a variety of convenient
travel resources to visitors.
Greyhound bus service connects Washington with
Baltimore (Maryland), Richmond (Virginia), New York and
other destinations along the Eastern Seaboard and in the
South. Trailways also provides service to eastern
cities.
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Getting Around
You'll be surprised to learn that DC has some of the
nation's worst traffic congestion so driving can be a
teeth-gritting experience; cycling is one of the best
ways to get around DC. Rental companies like Better
Bikes Inc delivers and picks up bikes anywhere in the DC
area.
DC's Metrobus system efficiently services the city
and surrounding suburbs, as does the sleek new Metrorail.
It is well funded and well maintained. Parking is
available at certain outlying stations. In addition to
Metro, two commuter train systems serve downtown DC from
the Maryland and Virginia suburbs, but these are mainly
commuter lines designed around the working week.
There is no shortage of cabs in DC, Diamond Yellow
and Capitol being the two major companies.
The municipal bus service fills in the gaps in the
Metro routes, but it can be slow-going in Washington's
traffic.
Washington's modern, efficient Metrorail subway
system is excellent. It provides services throughout the
city and outlying communities. Commuter trains service
downtown DC from the Maryland and Virginia suburbs.
If you want to drive, all the usual car rental
operators are downtown or at the airports, but really,
driving is a fool's errand in DC traffic, especially
when most sights are within a few blocks of public
transport.
Taxis are a viable option for short trips (especially
if you share cabs), and they're a good way to avoid city
parking hassles.
Walking is the best way to get around central
Washington - most visitors do a lot more of it than they
might expect.
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